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21. Re: MGB valve adjustment (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 15 Oct 1997 08:47:00 -0500; Noise is good. Quiet is not. Here's the deal: If the clearance is too slim, one could get valve wear and seat erosion to the point that the valve is not closing completely. The exhaust valve is coole; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg00934.html (7,708 bytes)
22. Re: Windscreen wiper wheelbox wrench (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 15 Oct 1997 08:56:54 -0500; The wiper box is made out of potmetal and corrodes badly, freezing the nut on the shaft. In my experience you will round the nut and booger (that's a technical term, read the book) the threads on the; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg00935.html (7,481 bytes)
23. Re: Stuck Tie Rod End Nut (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 16 Oct 1997 10:37:08 -0500; Actually, JC Whitney sells a nice nut splitter that requires access only to one side. I use it all the time. I was just thinking about Ray last night. I really miss him. DREMEL!!!!! A. B. Bonds; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01047.html (8,275 bytes)
24. Re: tree huggers--Please desist (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 16 Oct 1997 17:32:22 -0500; etc Over the past week, only about 30% of the messages in this mail group have been directly focused on MGs, their care, feeding and use. I hope we can direct at least our political commentary to mor; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01094.html (7,281 bytes)
25. Re: Valve Adjustment Gone Bad!!! (help quick) (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 17 Oct 1997 08:37:51 -0500; My Dad taught me how to adjust valve clearances by pulling the cover on a 36 Chevy Master Coupe and doing it while the engine was running. Actually, it's not too hard to adjust if the engine idles sl; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01156.html (8,225 bytes)
26. Re: Carb Question (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 22 Oct 1997 08:42:38 -0500; No. Bad idea. The replacement parts are probably just as bad as the original ones. Most of the things that need to be replaced in an SU can be had new for about $20 per carb. Get the Haynes SU carbur; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01533.html (9,490 bytes)
27. Re: Weird thing happened (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 23 Oct 1997 09:49:53 -0500; Sounds like the infamous White Van speaker scam. Not an urban legend, I've been hit on by the gang (didn't buy, in fact threatened to call the cops to get rid of them). I guess they've graduated to S; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01609.html (8,128 bytes)
28. Re: 1500 Bottom end rebuild (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 23 Oct 1997 10:57:33 -0500; On bottom end bolts, I would urge not getting them from nut and screw places. They are usually high-strength and hardened, often gound to fit and an off-the-shelf item may not stand up to the poundin; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01615.html (8,648 bytes)
29. RE: I think it's clutch time..... (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 23 Oct 1997 13:46:07 -0500; You ever done a TD? Generalizations can be dangerous. A. B. Bonds; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01630.html (8,381 bytes)
30. RE: I think it's clutch time..... (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 23 Oct 1997 15:39:05 -0500; You would be wrong in your expectation. A very different architecture. The synchro surfaces are swaged and riveted into the shifting hubs, so that the shifting hubs must be replaced in their entirety; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01644.html (9,811 bytes)
31. Re: U-Joint HELP (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 24 Oct 1997 09:18:54 -0500; Pull the clips out first ;) Seriously, U-joints are a lot nastier than you might initially think. The cups are a tight press fit. They are supposed to be. The Hard Part is getting them out without di; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01687.html (8,931 bytes)
32. Re: AA and RAC Badges, SU Choke setup (score: 1): Author: "A.B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 20:30:52 -0500; There are only two choke adjustments. One is to make sure that the link between the two jet levers is of such a length that the jets are balanced, i.e., they come out the same distance when the choke; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01727.html (8,586 bytes)
33. Re: Road & Track Article (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 25 Oct 1997 11:08:30 -0500; Ahh, you youngsters. Yes, there is/was an Andy Capp (British contribution to the comic section), but more to the point, Andy Gump was also a character who lived in the Sunday funnies. I think the las; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01764.html (8,733 bytes)
34. Re: MG Mistique (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 27 Oct 1997 10:08:11 -0600; They are pressed on. You need to remove the cap first, which is a trick in itself. I drilled a small hole in mine and use a hook kinda thing. You then need (a) a BF hydraulic press (10 ton or so) and; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01896.html (7,088 bytes)
35. Re: Dash dimmer (technical) (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 27 Oct 1997 13:46:30 -0600; Well, not quite. The reason that house-type dimmers can be made so cheaply is due to the use of AC. Neither triacs nor SCRs work with DC, unless it is pulsating DC. To make this kind of dimmer for yo; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01923.html (7,244 bytes)
36. Re: Stripped Alloy Bolt Hole (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 28 Oct 1997 10:02:17 -0600; The usual fix for this disaster (after lubrication with liquid bread) is something called a helicoil. These are available in both SAE and metric sizes at your local industrial-type bolt and screw emp; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg02008.html (11,124 bytes)
37. Re: MG Mistique (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 28 Oct 1997 10:23:54 -0600; With an MGA, there is no nut and the spline must be moved about three inches. This can't be done with the knockoff cap unless you have a graduated set of "pushers". The other half is that Installing; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg02012.html (7,831 bytes)
38. Re: OD engagement light (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 29 Oct 1997 13:28:02 -0600; It is a simple matter to rig a light off the line that feeds the solenoid. This will tell you whether there is voltage going to the solenoid. This won't tell you whether the OD is engaged, since that; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg02071.html (8,280 bytes)
39. Re: OD engagement light (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 30 Oct 1997 08:40:17 -0600; I apologize for the diss to others, but most of what you have been reading is from folks whose overdrives or control circuits aren't working properly. These systems should be repaired. With everythin; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg02115.html (9,372 bytes)
40. Re: OD engagement light (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 30 Oct 1997 08:54:20 -0600; Modern? ODs were used in Derby Bentleys starting about 1934. Once again, if everything is working right, operation is straightforward and relatively risk-free, as with most designs British. A. B. "If; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg02116.html (8,892 bytes)

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