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281. Re: healey sighting (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 07:32:50 -0700; "also, i noticed reflectors are below the rear bumper. which is kosher, top or bottom?" Jim, I believe they are supposed to be above the bumper. bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net '; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00203.html (7,224 bytes)
282. Re: Sealed bearing? (score: 1): Author: bspidell@comcast.net (Bob Spidell); Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 23:30:07 +0000; "I'm assuming this is a "sealed bearing" and requires no additional lubricant of any kind?" Correct. bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00234.html (7,547 bytes)
283. Re: Bad Sound (score: 1): Author: bspidell@comcast.net (Bob Spidell); Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 19:23:53 +0000; Check if you've blown an exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket. This can happen suddenly and can make a sound like a loud tappet or even something in the gearbox. You'll only hear it with the engine r; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00263.html (9,218 bytes)
284. Re: Information Request (score: 1): Author: bspidell@comcast.net (Bob Spidell); Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 21:43:14 +0000; I'd get the electronic ignition, preferably Pertronix. Easier starting, smoother idle and no more points hassle. If your stock starter starts the car, why not stick with it? Putting more than twice; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00271.html (8,940 bytes)
285. Re: Brake Fluid (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 18:23:13 -0700; Here's some info: http://www.automec.co.uk ... click on "Press" bs -- ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M **; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00286.html (7,022 bytes)
286. Re: FW: spokes, nipples and rust (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 18:22:59 -0700; re: "Any other good ideas regarding spoke adjustment and wheel truing would be great, before I muck it up!" FWIW, a "pro" once told me to adjust the spokes on the outer bead of the rim for wheel rou; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00332.html (8,692 bytes)
287. Re: FW: spokes, nipples and rust (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 21:51:55 -0700; Well, I didn't know if anybody used #2 pencils any more. And, I didn't to suggest they "tap a laptop PC with a word processor" against the spokes ;) bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.ne; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00345.html (7,657 bytes)
288. Re: SU carb screws (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 06:53:18 -0700; FWIW, I can't see any logic using lock washers, especially the split type, on aluminum. Not only do the sharp ends of the washer dig into the Al, but in so doing it relieves the spring force, which; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00399.html (8,298 bytes)
289. Paint on Lower Rear Shroud (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 07:20:28 -0700; Can someone confirm the lower "flange" on the rear shroud--the inch or so wide strip where the shroud is riveted to the boot pan--is supposed to be painted black (or cove color)? bs ** Bob Spidell Sa; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00401.html (7,700 bytes)
290. Re: Paint on Lower Rear Shroud (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 10:45:48 -0700; Flat/satin black it is (though I'll probably spray it on). Thanks for the responses. bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M **; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00406.html (8,653 bytes)
291. Re: Lift device to store factory hardtop (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 22:50:20 -0700; My Dad did this for the top on my Mom's '55 T-Bird. It's been a while, but if I recall, he made a cradle of polyester ropes. I think flat straps might work better. I don't know about stabilizing it; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00443.html (8,588 bytes)
292. Re: FW: Ethanol and Healeys (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2006 13:11:55 -0700; Mr. Raymond's fingers must be VERY tired from all that clicking ;) For that money, you'd think he could buy a decent toupe'. bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00612.html (9,858 bytes)
293. Re: Intermittant ignition problem (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 16:57:09 -0700; Cheap test: Get the engine warm, then park it in a dark garage and observe the secondary ignition system (dist. cap and wires). Watch for stray arcing, esp. on the dist. cap. bs ** Bob Spidell San J; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00736.html (8,070 bytes)
294. Re: 100M in Hemmings (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 18:46:27 -0800; Hi Bob, Could you post the URL of the website? Thanks, bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M **; /html/healeys/2006-03/msg00689.html (7,226 bytes)
295. Re: Fuel pump diode (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 07:26:39 -0700; If you're talking about the "stock" diode--the one in the little "can" with red and black leads, I've wondered about it myself. It's kinda big for just a diode--I've wondered if there isn't a resist; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00775.html (7,725 bytes)
296. Re: Heater question (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 07:37:18 -0700; A few years ago, I was leaving Death Valley via the western grade on a 115degF day. We were approaching boiling--several cars and a tour bus had already pulled over due to overheating--and I turned t; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00776.html (9,349 bytes)
297. Re: Clutch Replacement (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 11:28:18 -0700; I've removed the transmission from my BJ8 from above. I don't think you can drop it--I've never heard of anybody doing that--but I haven't tried, either. I was younger and dumber, but I lifted the t; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00785.html (8,103 bytes)
298. Re: Waxoyl (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 19:06:54 -0700; FWIW, I've used LPS3 for years on my BJ8. I spray it on bare metal, and metal stays rust-free for a year or two. I've applied it with a hand spray bottle, and I've shot it into the chassis with an ai; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00063.html (7,129 bytes)
299. Re: repair panel (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 16:44:05 -0700; Just so happens I just finished installing two of these on my BJ8. Here are some of my "observations:" 1) if you can effect the repair without cutting the "bead" on the wheel cutout, do so 2) there; /html/healeys/2006-04/msg00809.html (8,858 bytes)
300. Re: Silly Thursday poll (score: 1): Author: bspidell@comcast.net (Bob Spidell); Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 17:54:10 +0000; AFAIK, my '67 (built in 11/66) BJ8 has the original coil, dents and all. We're at 145K miles and ticking. Lost count of the number of fuel pumps, though. The solid state Burlen unit has been working; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00114.html (8,027 bytes)

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