Mail Archive Search: <+from:bspidell@comcast.net>

Results:

References: [ +from:bspidell@comcast.net: 1855 ]

Total 1855 documents matching your query.

301. Re: Request: How do I handle this problem? (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 09:28:06 -0700; "How can an Austin Healey guy drive a VW?" Can't be done. Suggest you split the difference, offering to maintain her VW but refusing to be caught dead in it. You might want to point out the atrociou; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00157.html (10,290 bytes)
302. Re: bj8 Girling Brake Servo (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 17:19:26 -0700; No, the special dry lubricant on the inside of the vacuum can does not come in the rebuild kit (at least, not in any of the kits I've purchased). DO NOT sand or polish the inside of the can. Try bra; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00287.html (7,881 bytes)
303. Re: BJ8 front hub problems (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 17:57:20 -0700; I'm confused. It's been awhile since I did front hubs, but from what I recall you start with no shims. With the hub nut tightened and no shims, the inner and outer bearings are pinched together agai; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00641.html (7,884 bytes)
304. Re: BJ8 front hub problems (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 21 May 2006 19:04:35 -0700; re: "The shims are used to adjust freeplay of the hub in an inboard/outboard direction and do not have an effect on the rotation of the hub." I repectfully disagree. Remove all the shims, crank the; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00648.html (10,203 bytes)
305. Re: Re; Front wheel bearings BN2-BJ8 (score: 1): Author: bspidell@comcast.net (Bob Spidell); Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 21:09:26 +0000; Found this when I was searching the 'net trying to find out what the hell "brinelling" is: http://www.timken.com/products/bearings/services/valueadd/prevent.asp bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidel; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00671.html (9,522 bytes)
306. Re: Cooling problems BJ8 (score: 1): Author: bspidell@comcast.net (Bob Spidell); Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 21:32:32 +0000; Pressurized cooling systems don't necessarily prevent overheating. The pressure cap will increase the temp at which the coolant boils (something like a degree or two per psi), but it doesn't sound l; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00673.html (9,282 bytes)
307. RE: Mystery Part (score: 1): Author: bspidell@comcast.net (Bob Spidell); Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 22:20:59 +0000; Not too hard if you put the ring on the boot first, then slide the boot over shift lever (with a little silicone oil). Agree it doesn't do anything important, but it looks kinda cool. bs ** Bob Spide; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00675.html (7,167 bytes)
308. Re: Subject: RE: Mystery Part (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 06:37:26 -0700; Why would it be chromed if it wasn't meant to be seen? The BMC bean counters would have had a fit ;) bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00698.html (7,316 bytes)
309. Re: Wheel Bearings (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 17:32:55 -0700; The definitive answer. I guess "pre-load" wasn't the right term in this case, and Steve was right about the removing endplay. The idea is to take up the slack on the bearings, without any binding. re; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00712.html (9,851 bytes)
310. Re: Valve Cover Leak (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 22:07:17 -0700; Hi Terry, I have a hard time keeping my valve cover from leaking; I think the top of the head isn't milled flat. I glue the gasket to the valve cover with 3M trim adhesive (aka "yellow snot"), then r; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00722.html (7,831 bytes)
311. Re: Radiator Question (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 21:58:52 -0700; I believe the 100s had the heat sender in the tank. I'm working from (suspect) memory, but I believe the tank on the radiator on our 100 is a slightly different shape ... more rounded than the 6-cyl; /html/healeys/2006-05/msg00791.html (7,438 bytes)
312. Re: steering box question (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2006 18:10:16 -0700; Dave Russell summed it up pretty good. I fashioned a "hook" from a bent flat screwdriver. The trick part is getting the new seal in. I made two "drifts" from 1/8" steel rods that I ground flat on one; /html/healeys/2006-06/msg00114.html (8,976 bytes)
313. Re: Coil (score: 1): Author: bspidell@comcast.net (Bob Spidell); Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 19:50:49 +0000; "CB" = Contact Breaker (i.e. points), "SW" = Switch (i.e. ignition switch). On a positive ground car, "+" should be wired to the points (which switch to ground), "-" to the ignition lead. bs -- ** B; /html/healeys/2006-06/msg00165.html (7,310 bytes)
314. Re: Ideas Invited- smoke only upon startup (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 06:25:28 -0700; If the smoke is blue, oil is getting into the top end. Most likely your valve guide seals are leaking. Have someone follow you in another car, and see if you get a puff of blue smoke when you accele; /html/healeys/2006-06/msg00215.html (8,456 bytes)
315. Re: Jacking the Healey (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 16:13:26 -0700; The "secret way," I believe, is to jack the front using a wood block under the crossmember. Then, jack the differential from in front of the right rear wheel (this is assuming you're using a floor ja; /html/healeys/2006-06/msg00229.html (8,933 bytes)
316. Re: Astoria, Oregon (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2006 17:25:11 -0700; Just went to the Tillamook Air Museum. They have some nice specimens a P-38 and P-47 (not many of these around). bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-; /html/healeys/2006-06/msg00241.html (6,937 bytes)
317. Re: Gasket Sealers (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 06:55:28 -0700; Good question, Ned. Right up there with "what's the right oil" and "what size tire" ... should get a lot of opinions. Here's mine: For a highly machined, flat surface a plain paper gasket is probably; /html/healeys/2006-06/msg00266.html (8,765 bytes)
318. Re: BN2 heat related miss--more info previously forgotten by me (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 06:50:36 -0700; When it gets hot, put it in a dark area (ventilated) and observe the ignition wiring and distributor cap. You might have a small crack or imperfection in the distributor cap that opens up with heat; /html/healeys/2006-06/msg00286.html (8,004 bytes)
319. Re: Boot Lid rubber seal (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 20:40:51 -0700; I use 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive 08011. Comes in yellow (common--aka "yellow snot") or black (less common). Follow the instructions on the box/tube exactly ... works great. bs ** Bob Spidell San Jose,; /html/healeys/2006-06/msg00326.html (7,044 bytes)
320. Re: Redline Trans Fluid (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 18:15:27 -0700; I think the concensus is use MTL in the gearbox-O/D, and MT-90 in the differential. That's what I use and have been very happy with both (you might get a bit more leakage with the MTL, however). bs; /html/healeys/2006-06/msg00421.html (8,320 bytes)

Current List: 301 - 320
Page: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20]