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281. Strange Yukky Thing! (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 13:40:18 -0400; So, I went to adjust my valves. When I removed the valve cover, I noticed a large quantity of what looked like silver-colored anti-seize compound on the top of the cylinder head, surrounding most of; /html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00164.html (7,341 bytes)
282. Re: vibration at speed (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 22:12:39 -0400; I would begin at the beginning: Carefully check the frame for alignment and damage, especially the frontmost part where the bonnet is hinged, and the wings that hold the front of the body tub. Defini; /html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00203.html (8,695 bytes)
283. Re: bleedin' brakes (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 22:41:12 -0400; Maybe... But bleeding the left rear is easy (in the USA at least). You can reach bleeder screw while sitting in the driver seat! No need to beg your wife or girlfriend to come out and pump for you. D; /html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00206.html (7,120 bytes)
284. Re: Really Wierd Behaviour - conclusion (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 16:39:38 -0400; It probably depends a lot on the quality of the material they are made from. I remember once rebuilding a (non-British) carb with a sort-of-cheap rebuild kit, and discovering that after a year, some; /html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00223.html (7,599 bytes)
285. RE: Mk3 Thrust Washer Replacement (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 15:22:59 -0400; Plastigage really wouldn't work on the thrust bearings. The best way to check for wear is with a dial indicator: Mount it on the front of the engine, to measure the fore-and-aft movement of the front; /html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00268.html (7,618 bytes)
286. Re: Oh No...Now stripped alum piece (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 18:23:07 -0400; In you need a couple of helicoils installed, try bringing the piece to a motorcycle shop. Since bike engines are mostly aluminum, they do heli-coiling all the time. Doug Braun '72 Spit /// spitfires@; /html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00325.html (7,104 bytes)
287. Re: Seat upholstery (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 07:07:48 -0400; These sound like the seats used in '72. I got the upholstery and foam kits for mine from Rimmer Bros a couple of years ago. If you want a photo of mine, let me know. Doug Braun '72 Spit /// spitfires; /html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00352.html (7,789 bytes)
288. Re: Fuses (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 07:11:58 -0400; I really doubt that chopping up the harness to add more fuses will make your car more reliable or safe. You will have more electrical connections to fail, and more pits and pieces that could break or; /html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00367.html (8,643 bytes)
289. Re: Battery box corrosion (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 21:58:01 -0400; I got one of those grid-like plastic floor tiles (that are used on wet floors, in restaurant kitchens) and cut out a battery-shaped piece. It sits under the battery and keeps it away from the bottom; /html/spitfires/2003-05/msg00399.html (7,235 bytes)
290. Re: Funky D-type O/D, P. II (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 18:16:51 -0500; 99% certain you will need to remove the cover. But at least you don't have to remove the transmission (yet). Firsts check the solenoid lever adjustment (that screw and locknut opposite the solenoid).; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00022.html (9,638 bytes)
291. Re: Timing a modified '72 1300 (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 10:55:41 -0500; FORGET the "2 deg ATDC" spec that the stock setup had. That is caused by the vacuum retard for idle emissions. As soon as you would give it any gas, the timing would jump forward to a more normal +6; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00037.html (7,460 bytes)
292. RE: Todd the Newbe (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 11:00:12 -0500; If you let the car sit overnight before working under it, the dripping will have mostly ceased. But it is a real good idea to clean the outside of the oil pan and the surrounding chassis areas before; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00038.html (7,515 bytes)
293. Re: bleed screws (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 09:43:01 -0500; BTW, the EZ-Bleed bleed nipples (which have check valves in them) come with their threads coated with a red gummy substance that serves the same purpose. Without that, they would work poorly, because; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00053.html (8,072 bytes)
294. Re: Timing or Carbs? (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 09:05:09 -0500; Probably not the timing. Besides, you can easily check the timing by twisting the distributor while the engine is idling, to see if you can get it to run better. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the c; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00067.html (7,946 bytes)
295. RE: It is a long shot - bleed screw sizes and speedbleeders. (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 11:06:10 -0500; BTW, the "L" in "SB3824L" means an extra-long unit. This is important for the Spit front calipers. At one point, their application listing listed a regular SB3824 for the Spit front brakes. This unit; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00072.html (8,036 bytes)
296. Re: Funky D-type O/D, P. II (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 10:15:32 -0400; Don't forget that the weight numbering system for gear oil is not equivalent to that of motor oil. I.e., a 40-weight motor oil is not at all half as viscous as a 80-weight gear oil at the same temper; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00100.html (8,188 bytes)
297. Re: Wiring Questing for O/D Tranny (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 15:06:34 -0400; Don't use brute force to remove the knob! (Ask me how I learned this.) Do this: 1: Pry off the plastic cap and switch, and disconnect the two wire connectors. 2: Use a wrench to loosen the cone-shape; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00108.html (10,227 bytes)
298. Re: clutch noise (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 09:44:58 -0400; This sort of noise should disappear when you push the clutch pedal, since the input shaft will stop spinning. I had a noisy input bearing last year. I could hear a swishing, rumbling sound that would; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00124.html (7,089 bytes)
299. Re: newbe with the noisy powerless spit! (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 20:36:11 -0400; The valve adjustments are the nuts on the rocker arms. They are totally conventional for an engine of its era. (The spec is 0.010" cold). Go RIGHT NOW to amazon.com and order the Haynes Spitfire manu; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00141.html (8,193 bytes)
300. Re: newbe with the noisy powerless spit! (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 11:14:10 -0400; If he has enough money to buy the car in the first place, and he can afford to a tank of gas, or a single spare part, he can afford the manual. And it will pay for itself very quickly! Doug /// spitf; /html/spitfires/2003-04/msg00150.html (8,003 bytes)

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