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References: [ +from:flinters@picarefy.com: 364 ]

Total 364 documents matching your query.

141. Re: Killed my '70 Mk3's electrical system! (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 19:57:55 -0700; Remove the guage and hook the wires back the way they were. If the car operates normally, it means your ammeter became a very pretty and single use fuse. If you had the full current of the starter go; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00043.html (8,597 bytes)
142. Re: shaved handles and paint (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 12:12:25 -0700; I've had one car done by Maaco. Prepwork was definately necessary as they mask off headlights, taillights, and glass...that's all. Bumpers, grills, everything else gets shot with paint. Back in the 8; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00127.html (8,694 bytes)
143. Re: the search continues... paint reacting. (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 15:26:58 -0700; happy This is caused by the paint reacting to the paint or primers below often. Incomplete preparation of subsurface layers can cause havoc with paint layers later on top. I've had it happen to me.; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00240.html (8,599 bytes)
144. Re: painting engine (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 06:49:36 -0700; Removing a Spitfire's engine is a pretty quick process and should take only a couple of hours- most of which is spent staring at the beast trying to figure out what item you forgot to unbolt that is; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00320.html (9,484 bytes)
145. Re: Mystery Light? (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 16:52:28 -0700; steering That would be the brake warning light connected to the valve assembly on the shelf in front of the master cylinder. Grounding the wire should illuminate the light. (correct), I'd try slippin; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00535.html (8,980 bytes)
146. Re: water pipe fittings - why not brass? (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 11:33:02 -0700; I cannot see any reason not to use brass in this situation. Brass is used elsewhere in the system without trouble. Expansion is sometimes and issue though as the two metals expand at different temper; /html/spitfires/2001-08/msg00015.html (7,626 bytes)
147. Re: Loose front wheels fail inspection? (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 10:52:16 -0700; All this work for inspections- Washington State doesn't inspect the physical car unless it's coming from another state or country before you can get tabs/tags for it. Even then it's a simple inspecti; /html/spitfires/2001-08/msg00135.html (8,285 bytes)
148. Re: Stalling problems (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 15:11:58 -0700; None of the above. Classic symptoms of vapor lock, which is most evident in warmer weather.... say like now? :) Maximize the fuel pressure by cleaning out the screen inside of the fuel pump, put new; /html/spitfires/2001-08/msg00137.html (8,267 bytes)
149. Re: Kill switch (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 17:14:38 -0700; Lots of things you can do to disable a Spitfire. It's also easy to hotwire our cars since the ignition coil and battery are so close together. Disabling the starter is the best choice. Given ten minu; /html/spitfires/2001-08/msg00367.html (9,101 bytes)
150. Re: Seatbelts & Bumpers (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 12:39:48 -0700; Gee, now I want to add 1500 bumpers to my Mk III ! :) I always liked driving the Freightliner with the 24 foot box on the back. It had big heavy ICC bars for the rear bumper. Folks would rear end tha; /html/spitfires/2001-08/msg00391.html (9,010 bytes)
151. Re: Ignition light (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 19:36:57 -0700; Charging issue most likely. Using a volt meter, test the battery voltage before and after you start the engine. It should be a minimum of 12.6 volts with the car running, and ideally around 14-16 vol; /html/spitfires/2001-08/msg00441.html (7,999 bytes)
152. Re: DIY painting (score: 1): Author: Flinthoof Ponypal <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 10:38:03 -0700; I've done a few cars/trucks in enamel and they turn out okay, but they always look like enamel. That is, the paint is glossy and soft. It's more prone to damage and you have to wait a good long time; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00070.html (9,389 bytes)
153. Re: DIY painting (score: 1): Author: Flinthoof Ponypal <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 13:53:13 -0700; Interesting notion. Overspray concerns has most folks spraying from the top down, but I can see the merit from bottom up too. Like everything else- experience is the best teacher. One method for one; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00162.html (8,530 bytes)
154. Re: What Have I done???? (score: 1): Author: Flinthoof Ponypal <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 17:37:55 -0700; at it, I think I have taken on a much larger project than I originally appears that the engine will need to be shifted to the rear quite a bit to additional modification to the center part of the fir; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00212.html (9,265 bytes)
155. Re: What Have I done???? (score: 1): Author: Flinthoof Ponypal <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 00:14:12 -0700; aluminum" oil pan, I am sending this to the list! You didn't mention to the list that the engine had a finned aluminum pan. Most folks like myself had to assume it was a simple stamped steel pan. And; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00217.html (9,092 bytes)
156. Re: Earth strap (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 17:55:45 -0700; go On all the Spitfires I've looked at and worked on so far, the earth strap connects to the top bolt/plug on the steering rack where the steering shaft enters. -Vegaman Dan _________________________; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00396.html (7,863 bytes)
157. Re: Electrical Show Stopper! (Long) (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 11:01:51 -0700; Testing the charging system is pretty easy in this case to determine if the problems you are experiencing are generator/alternator or battery related. You'll need a volt meter to do the testing- not; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00418.html (10,437 bytes)
158. Re: oil pressure light (score: 1): Author: flinters <flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 23:43:07 -0700 (PDT); Disconnect the lead from the oil pressure sending unit at the block (beneath the distributor) and ground it to the engine block. That should simulate the loss of oil pressure and light the warning li; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00456.html (8,232 bytes)
159. Re: SU Carb problem (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 13:25:39 -0700; Did you replace the float valves as well as the floats? Sounds like you have a sticking float valve which is not usually caused by a sunk float, but instead the valve itself is worn and sticking. The; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00466.html (7,626 bytes)
160. Stainless Steel Brake Lines (score: 1): Author: Flinthoof Ponypal <Flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 21:31:28 -0700; Just learned an interesting tidbit about brake lines I didn't know about stainless steel. Normal mild steel brake lines are double flared at 45 degrees at the ends for sealing. Stainless steel lines; /html/spitfires/2001-06/msg00057.html (7,953 bytes)

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