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121. Re: BN1-2 #33 & #34 Racing photo (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 14:27:45 +0800; If I'm not mistaken, #33 and #34 were painted a very special non-standard color, basically what some have called a "Healey Green." It looks to be a very attractive color. It's not a faded photo-color; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00168.html (8,054 bytes)
122. Re: Candidate for the worst basket case (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 20:19:44 +0800; Hey that looks like Larry Varley's latest project!!! Cheers, Alan; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00172.html (7,936 bytes)
123. Re: 1953 BN1 on Ebay #4565608667 (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 22:36:51 +0800; I think with the 55 count he's getting confused that this is a 100S. The car's paint job is off in many places and ... well... it can't be 9.5 out of 10 when the interior isn't even in the car yet. C; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00181.html (8,402 bytes)
124. Re: Ebay Car 4566638769 ?? Wierd engine color (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 13:28:47 +0800; Hi Scott - If I'm not mistaken, OEM replacement blocks from the factory came some sort of color like this. Perhaps the PO had the entire long block replaced, or a dealer swap for a defective engine?; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00223.html (7,951 bytes)
125. Re: Turn signal mechanism on Steering Wheel (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 08:56:01 +0800; The brass nut which holds the stator tube stationary is loose (or missing), allowing the trafficator to spin around. This brass nut is located at the very end of the steering box facing the front of; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00250.html (8,401 bytes)
126. Re: Leaking steering box (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 09:04:09 +0800; Replacing the seal is a somewhat difficult job. You have to remove the tie rod lever, then remove the top of the stearing box and remove the steering peg & roller. Then you can then easily tap the s; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00251.html (7,885 bytes)
127. Re: Correct orientation of starter motor pinion? (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 22:10:42 +0800; Most starters have the pinion gear at the end of the starter shaft, and engage inwards, hence the bevel facing the motor body. Most starters do this because it keeps the starter motor from striking; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00267.html (8,410 bytes)
128. Re: Glove Box Lock (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 09:11:50 +0800; If you can't find it through the normal channels in the US (like Bill Bolton or the Nocks), you will want to get in touch with David Ward in the UK for that stuff, I think he has quite a few of the; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00288.html (7,183 bytes)
129. Re: Please ... help with this question about starter motor (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 06:10:50 +0800; Hi Alan - Another person on the list politely pointed out to me that my last advice to you on the starter was totally wrong & backwards. I was the one getting confused with gear reduction starters. A; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00334.html (9,343 bytes)
130. Re: hd-8 carburetor Jet Housing Assembly (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 08:16:09 +0200; Try SU Midel in Australia. They'll probably sell you one. Regards, Alan; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00497.html (7,333 bytes)
131. Re: BJ8 Front Wheel Hub/spine installation (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 17:07:25 +0300; Make sure you have a good selection of spacers that go under the castle nut so when you get it all back together, you will be able to tighten it all up correctly. You don't want to finish the job an; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00531.html (7,909 bytes)
132. Re: Fuel Gauge (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2005 15:44:31 +0800; Very funny!! That guage wouldn't work for me in Hong Kong. Try about US$80 on full. My friends in Europe pay almost as much as I do. Actually, my wife's father (who makes almost three times the aver; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00724.html (7,245 bytes)
133. Re: Optional Accessories (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 10:07:22 +0800; Hey... I resent the insunuation my BJ8 is a potato! Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8; /html/healeys/2005-08/msg00780.html (10,223 bytes)
134. Re: SS Exhaust (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 06:38:20 +0800; Apparently this supplier is one of the best sources, pricewise, pretty much in the world. The quality of the system is apparently very high as well: http://www.stainlesssteelexhausts.net/data/listin; /html/healeys/2005-07/msg00016.html (7,306 bytes)
135. Re: AH4000 (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 09:33:38 +0800; The Healey 4000 was a prototype using a 4 liter Rolls Royce motor. I think two or three were made, only two are known to exist. I think Rolls was fairly keen on the idea but I think lackluster perfo; /html/healeys/2005-07/msg00020.html (7,451 bytes)
136. Re: AH4000 (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 12:19:06 +0800; I stand corrected!... I've heard the thing is a bit waffly to drive though. Still would love to take it for a spin... Cheers, Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8; /html/healeys/2005-07/msg00027.html (7,282 bytes)
137. Re: How much is too much? (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Sun, 3 Jul 2005 06:41:31 +0800; about 15 years ago I had a squeek for about a year until I checked the front very carefully and realised that the front hub castle nut was just a little too loose. Added a shim or two, retightened i; /html/healeys/2005-07/msg00041.html (7,983 bytes)
138. Re: Stuck clutch (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 09:47:54 +0800; Hi Fred - Try blip starting (w/ the starter) with the clutch depressed - try it a few times. That should be enough to break it free, esp. if you drive your car fairly regularly (which I think you do); /html/healeys/2005-07/msg00069.html (7,358 bytes)
139. Re: Changing pressure plates 29D engine to 29F engine (BT to (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 06:09:03 +0800; They apply pressure differently. The spring rates are lower (hence the easier clutch), but with the diaphram it applies pressure evenly over the whole clutch surface. The lower spring rate should re; /html/healeys/2005-07/msg00096.html (7,160 bytes)
140. Re: tricarb (score: 1): Author: Blue One Hundred <healey.nut@gmail.com>; Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 06:11:24 +0800; Same here... no problem. I use Instead o' Lead gold by Bardahl.. it's the best suff out there, if you can find it. Bardahl sells it directly if you want. Alan '53 BN1 '64 BJ8; /html/healeys/2005-07/msg00097.html (7,139 bytes)

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