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1. Welch plugs (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2006 11:00:54 -0700; I rebuilt my overdrive tranny and tested it with an electric motor ala Nelson Riedel and others. I discovered a fairly sizeable leak at one of the three Welch plugs at the forward end of the top cove; /html/triumphs/2006-03/msg00198.html (7,218 bytes)
2. Re:TR6 whining rear end (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 08:12:07 -0700; Rob, are you sure your diff has the crush washer? If your diff has the castellated pinion nut, its probably the old style diff that used a solid spacer. In that case, your noise is from somewhere els; /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg00561.html (7,863 bytes)
3. Re: TR6 Clutch Adjustment (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2004 08:26:04 -0700; There really aren't any adjustments to speak of. One common problem is that the linkages wear and collectively introduce play which results in a lower pedal. Starting at the clutch pedal, the connec; /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg00694.html (8,582 bytes)
4. Re: 1976 TR6 Ignition switch Moss # 667-875 (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 07:29:01 -0600; Bob, if you are calling the ignition switch the thing with the wires, the only thing that holds it on AFAIK is a tiny phillips screw on the side of the key housing. If you cant get access to the scre; /html/triumphs/2004-08/msg01419.html (8,076 bytes)
5. part cross reference (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 13:27:24 -0700; Some of you may have a document that provides cross-references from one british application to another. I am looking for the cupped seal for the brake MC piston for a late TR6. Basically I won a NOS; /html/triumphs/2003-03/msg00186.html (7,811 bytes)
6. wire loom cover (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 10:01:56 -0700; I'm putting my steering column back together and I'm having trouble getting the wire loom cover to fit under the column. Perhaps someone could verify if the end facing the front of the car get pinche; /html/triumphs/2003-03/msg00303.html (7,338 bytes)
7. Re: #%$^@#!@# diff pinion seal! (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 10:41:55 -0700; Darrell, I have had better luck with the rubber seal, but before you put any seal in make sure you check the pinion flange for seal wear. You may want to use some crocus cloth to clean up any wear. I; /html/triumphs/2003-03/msg00397.html (10,417 bytes)
8. headlights (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:03:27 -0700; I am close to putting my headlights back on the car. When I took them off the car 6 mos ago, they were held on with three sheet metal screws directly into the fender. Moss shows a "spire nut", which; /html/triumphs/2003-03/msg00772.html (7,146 bytes)
9. Re: Engine Support during Transmission Removal (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 09:09:57 -0600; On the rear of the engine block on my 76 there is a bracket for attaching a hoist. What I did was to use a long 2x4 that rested on two 6" long 2x4s resting on the 2" side at the left and right side; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00670.html (8,258 bytes)
10. TR6 fuel gauge reading high (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2005 13:05:14 -0600; Don, if your diagnosis points you to the fuel sender, I can tell you that on my car empty is about 23 ohms and full is about 160 ohms although this is from memory (I wrote them down but they are at h; /html/triumphs/2005-08/msg00844.html (8,004 bytes)
11. Re: Rear End Play (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 09:21:10 -0600; Dale, if you really have that much end play your rear axle bearing is probably gone, although you may get extremely lucky and the inboard bearing adjustment nut somehow got loose (although this is un; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00152.html (8,117 bytes)
12. Re: TR6 Ignition Problems (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 08:42:14 -0600; Scott, this wasnt mentioned but I would try the old method of removing a spark plug wire and holding it close to but not touching a clean ground, whilst having someone try starting the engine. You sh; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00415.html (9,015 bytes)
13. Re: brake rotors (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 08:06:56 -0700; Paul, I think they can be done both ways but ISTR the shop prefers bearings left in. I would call your local shop and check with them. John Lumia - 1976 TR6; /html/triumphs/2005-01/msg00378.html (6,569 bytes)
14. [TR] Re: TR6 ignition switch assembly removal help needed (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 15:13:12 -0600; Keith, if you need to remove the entire lock and ignition switch, then either the dremel method or the chisel method will work. But it may be that the ignition switch is broken and is preventing you; /html/triumphs/2006-06/msg00125.html (8,092 bytes)
15. [TR] Re: TR6 Brake noises (score: 1): Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>; Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2006 17:23:06 -0600; Dave, I have tried grinding a bevel on the front of my pads and the squealing went away in my case. Just used the shims, no goop. I bought the pads 3 or 4 years ago, but I forget the manufacturer. I; /html/triumphs/2006-07/msg00183.html (7,851 bytes)

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