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1. RE: Most Dangerous Tool (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 14:47:11 -0500; I agree, it's the user (or actually the user's big brother helping - shhhh!) But seriously, it's loose clothing that can get caught in even the tamest tool and make it hazardous. I watched a guy on M; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01245.html (9,036 bytes)
2. Re: TR3 Wiper Motor Mounting Kit (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:44:17 -0500; Had the same problem too. Tried warming in water, soap, etc but finally just sprayed liberally with WD-40 and was able to slip one edge in first then work around to the other side . but I got 'em in.; /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01511.html (7,868 bytes)
3. Re: Rear Suspension; TR4 solid axle cars sitting high in rear (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2004 09:37:20 -0500; Here's how many vintage racers lower their rear-ends: http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/triumph/1067481694/1067481694pk.htm Lots of other pictures of a TR4 vintage racer (For sale) PeterK something h; /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg00912.html (8,358 bytes)
4. Re: TR6 Bra (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2004 09:08:47 -0400; Bra's are bad news for your paint (as well as ugly IMO) and will cause more damage in the long run. A few years ago I switched to a "clear bra" product after my 911 hood paint was RUINED by a loose b; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg00819.html (9,333 bytes)
5. Subject: reRe: TR6 Bra (score: 1): Author: kentech@midmaine.com; Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 20:21:48 -0400 (EDT); The beauty of this stuff is that it is very had to see other than it has a little orange peel texture to it if you look at it just the right way to see it. As far as the contours, it stretches and s; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg00888.html (7,712 bytes)
6. Subject: RE: Griot's garage (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2004 09:58:56 -0400; I've tried most of the off the shelf brands of detailing products and have been disappointed with the long-term results. I use high end Zymol estate glaze ($75/12oz) that you apply by warming it in y; /html/triumphs/2004-10/msg01095.html (7,225 bytes)
7. Subject: RE: TR2/3 installation of rear seal (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 09:01:30 -0400; I have a factory tool (weighs in at 7 = lbs) and it measures 2.822 . It is indeed a very tight fit as Randall stated but it not the Moss plastic tool, it s the real deal. PeterK then Not really. You; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00546.html (7,990 bytes)
8. Subject: TR3A cooling again (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 09:04:24 -0400; I've seen just such a ring available at mini-mania.com used when running w/o a stat. thermostat & only installing the outer ring Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/ti; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00547.html (6,786 bytes)
9. WTB TR6 front sway bar (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 23:35:38 -0400; After assembling the front suspension and installing TR6 radiator support on my 4A, it seems that the Addco kit I bought for it hits the new radiator support (need for oil cooler mount) so I m going; /html/triumphs/2004-09/msg00851.html (6,904 bytes)
10. Re: Silicone on rear sealing block on 4A (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:43:41 -0400; I followed Jack's advice and took out the crank and replace the sillycone with the proper shellac soaked felt pieces. It was quite a job to get the rear main cap off because it was literally glued in; /html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00847.html (8,791 bytes)
11. Re: Ignition Warning Light Wiring (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 23:42:00 -0400; Here's a thought. Has anyone ever documented the end to end wiring harness connections for a TR4A - with each color wire along the harness ID'd and what it connects to? I've been able to ID many of t; /html/triumphs/2004-08/msg01266.html (8,006 bytes)
12. RE: Wiring diagram 4A (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 15:38:52 -0400; I'll be making such a "functional" diagram for my spankin' new harness and post the location when I'm done. I was wondering the same thing. Somehow the smoke got out of the light switch the other day; /html/triumphs/2004-08/msg01292.html (10,252 bytes)
13. Subject: Re: Head colour, aux oil (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 12:28:37 -0400; The caveat with oil coolers as I've learned is that if you live in a colder climate, the oil stays too cold at first and this can result in sludge in your engine. So if you get one, use an inline oil; /html/triumphs/2004-08/msg01495.html (6,866 bytes)
14. Surrey tops on eBay (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2004 08:38:11 -0400; Well after over a month of waiting I finally received the fiberglass surrey top that I purchased on eBay. Lots of delays and excuses but the guy came through (and has been really nice to deal with).; /html/triumphs/2004-07/msg01022.html (6,937 bytes)
15. Silicone on rear sealing block on 4A (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2004 23:22:45 -0400; What is the collective wisdom on using silicone instead of shellac soaked felt for the rear sealing block on the TR4A engine? My local machine shop turned the scroll and drilled the rear main cap on; /html/triumphs/2004-07/msg01657.html (7,370 bytes)
16. TR4 front engine plate question (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 15:46:08 -0400; Is the front engine plate on the TR4 engine supposed to be completely I just blasted mine in prep for re-coating and it has a slight bend/crease on either side radiating down from the top of the tria; /html/triumphs/2004-06/msg00934.html (7,538 bytes)
17. RE: TR4 front engine plate question (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 17:19:58 -0400; Maybe I'll use a Bfh and pound it flat - I can't visualize the adjustable wrench working except on the edge and mine is "warped" several inches up. Maybe the previous dpo liked dumping the clutch for; /html/triumphs/2004-06/msg00937.html (8,124 bytes)
18. RE: TR4 front engine plate question answered (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 11:42:13 -0400; Thanks to all for the advice. What I did to fix the warp took 15 minutes using my HF 12 ton press. I first marked chalk lines on the convex portion of the bends (the back of the plate), then working; /html/triumphs/2004-06/msg00976.html (7,405 bytes)
19. WTB One stainless steel brake hose for TR4-6 (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 13:29:38 -0400; Anyone have one braided stainless steel rear brake hose that they're willing to part with? I'm converting my solid axle rear brake setup to separate feeds and just need one more. Email me offline ple; /html/triumphs/2004-06/msg01119.html (6,739 bytes)
20. Subject: Engine Break in Oil (score: 1): Author: "Kentech Motorsports" <kentech@midmaine.com>; Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2004 10:24:09 -0400; I asked my local engine rebuilder/machine shop about break in oil. They said every engine they build (big turbo diesels to Nascar racing engines) they use Valvoline multi-vis 10w30 or 5w30 and add a; /html/triumphs/2004-06/msg01259.html (7,250 bytes)

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