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61. Re: [oletrucks] Pressure fed sandblaster... (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 22:56:00 -0700; I once saw an article on converting a propane bottle. It involved welding a section of threaded pipe (with a cap) on top, and welding a bung for a valve on the bottom. The plumbing is a little tricky; /html/oletrucks/1999-10/msg00188.html (7,199 bytes)
62. Re: [oletrucks] Paint and Pate? (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 18:21:01 -0700; You can skip the etching primer step. Rust can form under it very quickly. Epoxy primer will hold up for weeks or months. I used PPG products and think they are great. The DP line is mixed 1 to 1, I; /html/oletrucks/1999-10/msg00243.html (9,639 bytes)
63. Re: [oletrucks] Deluxe Horn Option (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 22:16:38 -0700; My local hardware store carries nylon bolts. -OR- It should be possible to intercept the negative coil wire before the ground (assuming neg ground). oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built; /html/oletrucks/1999-10/msg00312.html (7,794 bytes)
64. Re: [oletrucks] brake line pluming (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 16:35:49 -0700; I believe the proportioning valve and possibly the residual valves have 1/8 NPT fittings. NPT should be wrapped, flare fittings should not. Using tape where you shouldn't is not critical in a brake s; /html/oletrucks/1999-10/msg00433.html (7,858 bytes)
65. Re: [oletrucks] 12 to 6 volt reducers not working...help (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 19:21:14 -0700; I would bet you are checking open circuit voltage. With no load, the voltage stays the same. When you connect the load/gauge/whatever, the voltage should drop. It is proved by the equation E=IR. E is; /html/oletrucks/1999-10/msg00619.html (8,046 bytes)
66. Re: [oletrucks] What About A Ford? (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 12:02:35 -0700; My '56 came with a 289. The PO (actually, about three owners back) had put an entire Ford drivetrain in. I think Ford swaps are uncommon because parts are more expensive. I have now replaced it with; /html/oletrucks/1999-09/msg00092.html (7,653 bytes)
67. Re: [oletrucks] Bare Metal Prep. (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:25:11 -0700; PPG now recommends epoxy primer under the filler. You shouldn't mix it up as a sealer until just before the final coats. It will keep off rust for a while. A zinc phosphate will hold off the rust wel; /html/oletrucks/1999-09/msg00424.html (11,328 bytes)
68. Re: [oletrucks] Modifications for '53 (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:32:48 -0700; I bet my truck had a worse wiring job. The PO installed a Ford engine AND charging system. He left the old regulator hanging on the firewall and spliced in the Ford wires. Since it no longer had a fl; /html/oletrucks/1999-09/msg00426.html (10,524 bytes)
69. [oletrucks] blasting (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:45:48 -0700; Anyone ever warped an oletruck with the blaster? I would think the roof and rear are the trouble spots, especially where both sides get blasted. Would I be OK if I avoid these two areas? Would it be; /html/oletrucks/1999-09/msg00427.html (6,685 bytes)
70. Re: [oletrucks] Broken Door Hinge Bolt (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:55:55 -0700; I tried this on a seat bolt that was stuck in the floor. MIG welded a nut to it, and although it will rock back and forth about 45 degrees, nothing will make it come out all the way. The nuts keep tw; /html/oletrucks/1999-09/msg00480.html (9,087 bytes)
71. Re: [oletrucks] Internet Message (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 20:13:52 -0700; You can always MAKE it fit. oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959; /html/oletrucks/1999-09/msg00573.html (8,027 bytes)
72. [oletrucks] paint removal (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 20:18:34 -0700; Any good ways to protect hidden areas after dipping? Phosphate dip? Dip primer? 3M anti rust with extra long wand? (It's a liquid, comes in quarts, claimes to not chip or peel, and has a 3 foot long; /html/oletrucks/1999-09/msg00574.html (6,485 bytes)
73. [oletrucks] leaf springs (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:13:43 -0700; Anybody know of a leaf spring kit for a '56 that's cheap? No Limit wants too much for the brackets alone. I would like to move the springs under the frame. I would make my own brackets if I found a s; /html/oletrucks/1999-09/msg00682.html (6,712 bytes)
74. Re: [oletrucks] 307 engine? (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 21:36:10 -0700; I'm a little unclear on this. Does the 307 use the same side mounts as a Chevy small block? I have a 307 Olds with 200-4R that might find its way into my truck. I would, however, like to be able to d; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00039.html (7,292 bytes)
75. Re: [oletrucks] 307 engine? (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 21:39:03 -0700; Also, is the 307 Olds crank the same as a 307 Chevy? oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00040.html (6,930 bytes)
76. Re: [oletrucks] (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 17:37:02 -0700; There are a couple of rules which took me awhile to figure out. First of all, the list is blocked, meaning you can only send the messages from the same address that the list is sent to you at. Second; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00089.html (7,499 bytes)
77. Re: [oletrucks] Problem with pedals.. (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 16:18:57 -0700; I had to heat mine with an oxy-acetylene torch and then beat the snot out of it. It has a tapered spline that sometimes won't come out easily. that a oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00133.html (7,607 bytes)
78. [oletrucks] driveline questions and project update (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 17:11:52 -0700; I have completed the repairs on the floor, step plates and cab corners. It is now time to do a little touch up blasting and paint the bottom of the cab. I just made a deal on a rebuilt 350 with a few; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00146.html (7,319 bytes)
79. Re: [oletrucks] Harbor Freight (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 20:11:00 -0700; I would also watch quality. Sometimes, however, a one time tool is just what is needed. I did get a pressure blaster from Harbor Freight for 80 bucks. I thought it was a misprint, but no. It didn't h; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00150.html (8,830 bytes)
80. Re: [oletrucks] heater question (score: 1): Author: "Keith" <kvdurand@mail.esc4.com>; Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:41:37 -0700; The thing to watch out for is doubling the voltage will quadruple the power! The volts and amps will both double. This will quickly eat motors and wiring. The difference in the light wiring is that t; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00244.html (9,757 bytes)

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