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References: [ +from:macmillan@home.com: 208 ]

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121. Re: Main Bearing Caps MGB (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 20:16:35 -0800; Using bolts would certainly offer a manufacturing speed advantage, and that the bolts can be used to pull the caps too shows that someone in the engineering department was really thinking! I'm afraid; /html/mgs/2000-11/msg00875.html (9,795 bytes)
122. Re: Brake pipes (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 08:05:48 -0800; Careful guys, those plastic clips are there to prevent the inevitable corrosion that will occur when dissimilar metals are in contact in the presence of moisture (steel+copper+humidity). Best to wrap; /html/mgs/2000-11/msg00886.html (7,106 bytes)
123. Re: Rear Seal Replacement (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 08:34:45 -0800; The engine has to be separated from the tranny to do the rear main seal. Replace the front tranny seal while you are at it too, and toss in a new Borg & Beck clutch kit if you have over 50,000 miles; /html/mgs/2000-11/msg00887.html (7,452 bytes)
124. Re: Questions about air compressors (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 07:45:21 -0800; Ken is absolutely right!! The difficulty comes in determining what is "big." I am now looking to replace my 4 hp, two stage, 220v, 20 gallon unit with something bigger for blasting, HVLP, etc. This w; /html/mgs/2000-11/msg01053.html (7,988 bytes)
125. Re: Contemplating purchase of 196x B-GT (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 08:19:23 -0800; I'd second Mark's comment on finding a complete unit, preferably without extreme rust in the floor/rocker panel area. Offer $100 for this basket case, pick all the parts off of it, including rear axl; /html/mgs/2000-11/msg01101.html (8,195 bytes)
126. MGBs are still in today's advertising! (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 08:27:24 -0800; Here is an early MK I MGB ('62-'64? Do I see pull handles?) used in a "lifestyle" motif on an auto dealership's Web site. Any body from the list? ;-) http://www.autonation.com/dealers/team/ -- Stuart; /html/mgs/2000-11/msg01102.html (6,739 bytes)
127. Re: Contemplating purchase of 196x B-GT (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 10:26:54 -0800; Conservation is a good thing, but may simply not be economically feasible. However, I love the publications from the folks at "Practical Classics" on MGB restoration. They will tackle just about any; /html/mgs/2000-11/msg01111.html (7,767 bytes)
128. Re: oberg lift (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 12:11:13 -0700; FWIW, I've seen these at my local FLAPs for $40 recently. Unfortunately, that was long after I paid Moss $75 for mine several years ago. I wouldn't pull an MGB engine without it. I have actually pull; /html/mgs/2000-10/msg00986.html (7,016 bytes)
129. Re: need su dashpot (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 13:23:59 -0700; I've got six of these lying around. They all look like s**t on the outside, but are good on the inside. A little brushing or blasting will clean up the oxidation on the outside. The pistons move free; /html/mgs/2000-10/msg01035.html (6,812 bytes)
130. Got rust? Discounted body panels! (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 14:45:36 -0800; /html/mgs/2000-10/msg01459.html (6,175 bytes)
131. Re: Engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 10:27:21 -0700; Whatever you do, just remember that the whole thing is a system, and to gain maximum power increase you really have to modify all parts of the system. Adding a hotter cam won't get you much unless yo; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00070.html (10,929 bytes)
132. Re: History of badge bars? (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 09:35:17 -0700; Brings back memories. . . Frankly, I wouldn't put a badge bar on a rubber bumper B, it really would not look right. Badge bars were a popular accessory in the US in the days when chrome on cars ruled; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00154.html (9,430 bytes)
133. Re: Oil Pressure Gauge, Bounce (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 10:12:15 -0700; I've got the same problem. I'm going to check the oil pressure relief valve, this is the only thing that could cause this on a new engine. I replaced the piston with a new one when I rebuilt the engi; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00156.html (7,064 bytes)
134. "We don't need no stinkin' badges..." (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 17:37:33 -0700; Being a double negative, this really means we do! A search for "car badges" on http://google.com turned up 10 pages of links. Everything from traders to vendors, including this one: http://www.cometp; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00204.html (6,825 bytes)
135. Re: Rear Hub (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 12:46:08 -0700; Well, it ain't pretty, but without a special tool the only way I could get this nut off and back on was with a cold chisel on the corner of one of the flats. It will put a little gouge in the nut, bu; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00322.html (7,384 bytes)
136. Re: Twist Manual (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 12:31:06 -0700; You grease the grease stained palm of Mr. Twist with the amount of $30 and his secrets will be yours. See the technical section at http://www.universitymotorsltd.com. Well worth the price. -- Stuart; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00398.html (6,696 bytes)
137. Re: steering rack gaiters (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 14:09:08 -0700; Good grief, of course you can unscrew the tie rods, remove the lock nut, and slip the gaiters on. Just mark the position of the nut with paint so you can keep the toe-in relatively close to the same; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00445.html (7,330 bytes)
138. Re: Cracked Head? (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 09:14:26 -0700; These heads can be successfully welded as part of a complete rebuild if the shop has the right equipment. Welding cast iron requires heating up the work piece in an oven, welding, cooling down in an; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00472.html (8,457 bytes)
139. Re: Petrol problems in Europe (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 14:23:47 -0700; I'll second that message! I lived through the gas crisis of the '70s, and I NEVER want to see that again. My understanding is that this is a tax protest, I hope it is resolved soon. I remember lining; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00491.html (8,271 bytes)
140. Re: knocking engine/help needed (score: 1): Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 08:13:52 -0700; First, a question: What is your oil pressure, both at idle and Second, to determine whether the knock is bearing or valve related, pull off each spark plug wire in turn, start the engine, and see if; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00574.html (7,867 bytes)

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