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101. Re: Electrical short question (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 09:01:38 -0400; It is a heater device to improve cold-starting and to reduce carb My 1975 B was driven in Maine for a couple of winters. When the wire would fall off, as it did from time to time, morning starts were; /html/mgs/2004-09/msg00179.html (7,941 bytes)
102. Re: Timing 101 (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 17:02:18 -0400; The MG plan was that the one bolt clamped the distributor into the plate, and that the elongaged holes in the plate offered sufficient adjustment in conjunction with the vernier. The practical appli; /html/mgs/2004-08/msg00036.html (7,789 bytes)
103. Re: clutch bleed wierdness (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2004 07:27:14 -0400; It's possible that the piston in clutch slave cylinder got pushed into a previously unused part of the cylinder and got stuck there. The area not in contact with the rubber cups can become rusty and; /html/mgs/2004-08/msg00129.html (9,005 bytes)
104. Re: clutch bleed wierdness (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2004 09:49:25 -0400; It is unlikely, but he wrote that the piston was stuck even when the hose was disconnected. I agree, though, that the clutch forces are great and would normally be expected to push the slave piston b; /html/mgs/2004-08/msg00132.html (9,376 bytes)
105. Re: clutch bleed wierdness (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 08:56:44 -0400; Hi Tim, New cylinder should be OK. New hose should be OK also. That little spring inside the cylinder is not what pushes the slave cylinder's piston back into position. It's the force of the clutch s; /html/mgs/2004-08/msg00147.html (9,390 bytes)
106. Re: clutch bleed wierdness (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2004 10:56:52 -0400; Hmmm. Not a good sign, that "flat and no pressure". Oh well, the good part (so to speak) is that removing the engine & gearbox to change the clutch is a lot easier in an MGB than in a TD. If you have; /html/mgs/2004-08/msg00149.html (9,302 bytes)
107. Re: 72 mgb 1800 (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 07:19:06 -0400; I have heard the click in the "earlier" solenoids, but have not been able to hear it in my 72's OD. You may have to drop the solenoid out of the OD, apply the voltage and watch what happens. Be caref; /html/mgs/2004-08/msg00416.html (7,257 bytes)
108. Re: moss supercharger (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 14:31:04 -0400; In our MG club, CT MG Club, is a member who installed a Moss supercharger into his GT. He says this is the best way he has found to pep up performance to today's standards while maintaining the car's; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00072.html (7,641 bytes)
109. Re: Lowering/Leveling '73 B (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2004 16:29:33 -0400; The coil springs in the front might have flat ends--that is, the coils don't just end, they are ground so they set flat into the crossmember and the spring pans. If they are flat, you won't be able t; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00163.html (7,848 bytes)
110. Re: TD Generator (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 08:12:47 -0400; When metal filings appear it is because the armature and the windings are making contact. Most common cause of that is the rear bushing has worn, allowing the armature to strike the windings. I woul; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00377.html (7,885 bytes)
111. Re: Part Two: Has Anyone Had this Happen? (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 08:39:44 -0400; A test of the rear axle half-shafts is to leave it in gear, jack up one rear wheel and turn it. If the driveshaft can't turn (because it's in gear) and the wheel does, it's one of the half-shafts or; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00378.html (7,546 bytes)
112. Re: Garage Find Bleeding Question (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 09:08:14 -0400; Brake fluid won't work its way down to the wheel cylinders without assistance of some sort. Opening the bleeder screws might allow it to flow to the wheels, but one should not count on it happening.; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00450.html (8,933 bytes)
113. Re: Starting problems (79 B) (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:09:55 -0400; A sound something like a grind, followed by nothing is very frequently caused by a bit of corrosion on a battery terminal. The starter is not receiving the power it needs to operate properly. Clean; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00469.html (7,576 bytes)
114. Re: Filling the steering rack (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 16:43:28 -0400; Ask your pharmacist for a plastic syringe, the largest in stock. Two ounce/60 ml is the size I use. Once the boot is in place on the rack but the clamp on the tie-rod is not clamped, you can poke the; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00516.html (7,692 bytes)
115. Re: the mysterious leaking coolant (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 08:36:57 -0400; R&R of the heater is a miserable job. Fortunately, you can use a length of heater hose from the pipe direct to the heater valve and take the heater out of the system until you want to tackle the pro; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00574.html (7,982 bytes)
116. Re: Oil for Overdrive Transmission (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 09:22:09 -0400; That's the way it seemed to me also. Yet here is my experience with a very-worn Tecumseh 7 hp engine on a Ariens power handle that drives snowblower in winter, lawn vacuum in spring and fall, and a; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00636.html (10,803 bytes)
117. Re: Oil for Overdrive Transmission (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 15:47:25 -0400; I've heard that too. Another bit of anecdotal experience--my TD engine was rebuilt a few years ago and run in on dino oil. Although friends who are wildly enthusiastic about synthetic kept urging me; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00645.html (10,474 bytes)
118. Re: Oil for Overdrive Transmission (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2004 15:54:42 -0400; On Fri, 30 Jul 2004 09:44:36 -0700 Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com> writes:; /html/mgs/2004-07/msg00646.html (9,007 bytes)
119. Re: What oil level is right? (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 10:22:04 -0400; I have had the same question. Thinking that I could establish a mark on the stick based on the workshop manual's specified amount of oil put into the engine, I changed oil recently. I raised the MGB; /html/mgs/2004-06/msg00045.html (9,747 bytes)
120. Re: What oil level is right? (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 08:51:09 -0400; I'm quite comfortable that you are right about this, especially the observation that the oil level will drop fast enough. Heretofore I have always drained, then refilled oil to the mark on the stick; /html/mgs/2004-06/msg00085.html (9,962 bytes)

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