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121. RE: Air filter (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 13:44:43 -0500; Check the gasket between the manifold and the catalytic convertor. This gasket often blows because of either the wrong type (for example, Moss sells a paper gasket, and it should be a thicker one wit; /html/mgs/2003-06/msg00627.html (6,994 bytes)
122. RE: Intermittant power loss (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 08:10:57 -0500; First thing I's do is replce the fuel filter. They are cheap and often Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive; /html/mgs/2003-06/msg00794.html (6,379 bytes)
123. Re:timing questions-now L head (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Thu, 1 May 2003 21:47:39 -0500; The L on the head means it is one of the factory heads that came with larger Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive; /html/mgs/2003-05/msg00030.html (6,378 bytes)
124. RE: Flasher is slow (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 19:31:49 -0500; Do the headlights dim when at idle? If so, check the alternator belt. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive; /html/mgs/2003-05/msg00608.html (7,449 bytes)
125. RE: DESPERATE (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 11:02:39 -0500; Sounds like you're getting the runaround. While the front brakes locked, open the bleeder. If the brakes release, it is the caliper, or the hose. If it release, then try undoing the hose where it joi; /html/mgs/2003-05/msg00883.html (6,958 bytes)
126. RE: Tire wisdom (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 20:53:51 -0600; A 165SR15 is not always a 1656SR15. The tires will vary a bit in diameter (and therefore circumferance) with different manufacturers. A good tire shop will be able to tell the the circumference of th; /html/mgs/2003-04/msg00044.html (6,423 bytes)
127. RE: Clutch (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 21:09:30 -0600; Depends on the car. A RBB with non-overdrive can have the clutch replaced by dropping the trans. OD's and CBB cannot. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://w; /html/mgs/2003-04/msg00045.html (7,311 bytes)
128. RE: MGB Rear Brake sticking (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 19:48:56 -0600; It doesn't sound like either a collpased hose or a sticking cylinder. My best guess is that you have some broken hardware or the lining of a shoe became unbonded. Pull the drums and take a look. Mayb; /html/mgs/2003-04/msg00135.html (6,546 bytes)
129. RE: high idle (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 19:28:49 -0500; Take some carb cleaner, and while the engine is running, spray where you think there might be a leak (i.e. shaft seals). If there is, the idle will change when sprayed. Maynard /// or try http://www.; /html/mgs/2003-04/msg00652.html (7,352 bytes)
130. RE: fast idle (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 21:10:30 -0500; If the cab cleaner doesn't change the idle speed, I'd look elswhere before I tried JB Welding the carbs. Did you spray the carb cleaner at all the seals (gaskets)? Maynard /// or try http://www.team.; /html/mgs/2003-04/msg00700.html (6,408 bytes)
131. RE: Brakes (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 13:00:26 -0600; What I would suggest is: Use the cellophane (or plastic wrap) when replacing the components. This will help to prevent the mster from running dry. Keep an eye on it while working. DO NOT LET THE MAST; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00142.html (8,500 bytes)
132. RE: Daily Driver (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 21:08:41 -0600; I use my 78B as my daily driver. I put on an average of 150-200 miles per Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00411.html (7,284 bytes)
133. re:cutting out (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 21:00:14 -0600; Check your fuel ump. I had a similar problem. I did a full tuneup and still had the problem. It began as a high speed miss and then began cutting out long enough for the engine to stall. When it did,; /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00498.html (6,494 bytes)
134. RE: Clubs and Pubs (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 22:25:00 -0600; Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive; /html/mgs/2003-02/msg00238.html (7,308 bytes)
135. re: manifold studs (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:47:51 -0600; You can also weld a nut to the end of the stud and use a breaker bar. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive; /html/mgs/2003-02/msg00503.html (6,882 bytes)
136. RE: Manifold studs (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:42:25 -0600; If heating the manifold with an oxyactelene torch till it is red hot (turn the studs while red hot) doesn't work, use a fine flame and blow (melt) them out. If you are careful, you will not damage th; /html/mgs/2003-02/msg00504.html (7,055 bytes)
137. Wiring (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 11:40:36 -0600; Has anyone but me seen this cartoon from the November road and tracK [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of nigel.jpg]; /html/mgs/2003-01/msg00009.html (6,260 bytes)
138. RE: Hi I'm back for a little whle (score: 1): Author: "mghirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 20:24:15 -0600; When I had my shop, I had a similar problem with a Midget. The gas station which was working on the car couldn't get the front two cylinders to fire. I found that the front carb was not transfering f; /html/mgs/2003-01/msg00708.html (6,738 bytes)
139. RE: B brake calipers (score: 1): Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 11:25:15 -0600; Check to see if the caliper bleeder hole is clean. If there is a piece of material in there, the bleeder screw will not seat poperly and leak. Also check to make sure the hole was not damaged. Maynar; /html/mgs/2002-12/msg00199.html (6,702 bytes)
140. RE: What to do first (score: 1): Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 20:24:43 -0600; Since the car is driveable, the first thing I would do is completely go over the brakes. Since you will always be tempted to drive it, make sure it stops. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-b; /html/mgs/2002-12/msg00233.html (6,443 bytes)

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