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References: [ +from:mghirsch@netzero.net: 451 ]

Total 451 documents matching your query.

201. RE: Dizzy problem (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:14:21 -0500
Some distributors have an O-ring seal around the shaft to prevent oil from leaking there. In your case, the O-ring, over the years, has probably hardened and beome attached to the block. I'm afraid t
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00464.html (6,856 bytes)

202. RE: Starter wiring post (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 13:03:23 -0500
If the stripped stud is the one I think it is, your best bet is to replace the Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00508.html (6,401 bytes)

203. RE: Starter not working (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 08:57:37 -0500
The 80 B has a starter relay. It is the can shaped thing on the right inner fender closest to the firewall. There are 4 leads.Jump the brown with the brown and white. The starter should engage. If it
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00556.html (7,184 bytes)

204. RE: Push starting (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:53:16 -0500
All B's can be push started provided: 1. There is enough juice in the battery to operate the fuel pump. 2. The alternator (generator) is working. 3. The car is non-OD or if OD equipped, theOD is not
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00635.html (6,931 bytes)

205. RE: Is brake fluid fammable (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:59:18 -0500
The best way to deal with the insurance company depends on your policy. If they will repair it fine. They probably will want to total the car. If so, buy salvage rights so you can keep the title and
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00636.html (6,543 bytes)

206. RE: Push starting (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 17:50:55 -0500
I know th OD is electronically operated. I know that it is supposed to engage only in 3rd and4th. However, since the owners manual says to make sure that the OD is not engaged when going into reverse
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00701.html (7,039 bytes)

207. RE: switch turn signal, etc. (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 17:59:24 -0500
It is possible that both high beams are burnt out. Can you flash the lights? There is a fuse that controls the headlight flasher. ALso check it. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorco
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00702.html (6,666 bytes)

208. Re: New wiring installation (score: 1)
Author: "Helene Yassinger" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 09:33:02 -0500
That is exactly what I did when I installed my new harness in my 67. By cutting of the terminal end of the old wire, I had an easy color match when installing the new harness. Maynard /// or try http
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00955.html (6,987 bytes)

209. re new wiring (score: 1)
Author: "Helene Yassinger" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Sat, 25 May 2002 09:52:01 -0500
Instead of vaseline, you could use dielectric grease (used in late model cars for spark plugs) or the grease that is used for external bulbs on late model cars. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00959.html (6,860 bytes)

210. RE: Bleeding brakes (score: 1)
Author: "Helene Yassinger" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 08:08:50 -0500
With the work you did, I would recommend bleeding all the brakes. In fact, if you haven't replaced the fluid recently, I would replace it all. Why? Brake fluid absorbs water. Water will eventuallly a
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00983.html (7,392 bytes)

211. RE: New wiring (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 08:12:45 -0500
Yes it is an insulator, but what happens is: 1. because of physical contact, continuity is there 2. It prevents corrosion and also shorts. Lucas terminals seem to have a problem with corrosion, expec
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg00984.html (6,845 bytes)

212. RE: Newbie questions (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 09:20:02 -0500
1. The wandering could be due to a number of things. Check the front end. Are the tie rods in good shape./ Are the kingpins worn? If you have wire wheels, the spokes may be loose. Check all the front
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg01025.html (7,294 bytes)

213. RE removing ingnitions (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 09:27:57 -0500
With a saw, cut off tool, or dremel tool, cut a slot in each bolt, then use a Or, you could drill hole in each and use an easy out. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archiv
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg01026.html (6,459 bytes)

214. RE: New wiring (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 08:37:32 -0500
Dielectric grease does not run at as low a temp as vaseline. I don't know why it is called dielectric grease. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg01097.html (6,658 bytes)

215. RE: Manifold to Cat (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 09:30:34 -0500
There is supposed to be a strap from the downpipe behind the cat to the trans bell housing. This helps support the system and reduces the stress on the cat, A lot of times the DPOs or muffler shops l
/html/mgs/2002-05/msg01158.html (6,701 bytes)

216. RE: Recommendations for oil filter (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 08:32:45 -0600
There are two main things to consider in an oil filter. First, obviously, is the filtering efficiency (how good the element is). The other thing to look at, is internal construction. There are some f
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00043.html (7,078 bytes)

217. RE: Stud removal (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:09:32 -0600
A lot of it depends on where it broke. If it is flush with the head, or a little above it, take a nut and weld it to the stud. Then remove it, carefully. If it is below the surface, I have had some s
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00062.html (6,617 bytes)

218. RE: Time or tune first (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 08:42:02 -0500
Since typically most carb problems are in the ignition, time first. Since you have points, static time it. (Set the timing mark on the damper with the pointer, hook up a tst light, and turn the dizzy
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00148.html (6,981 bytes)

219. RE: Dying at h ighway speeds (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 08:49:00 -0500
Which electronic ignition do you have? An early sign of failure of the module is failing when it is hot, and running after it cools down. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool ///
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00149.html (6,524 bytes)

220. RE: Removsl fuel gauge (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 16:09:51 -0500
You have to determine if the problem is in the sending unit, wiring or gauge. The first step is to turn the ignition on, and ground the lead to the sending unit. The gauge should go to full, If it do
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00162.html (6,608 bytes)

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