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Total 451 documents matching your query.

221. RE: Removal of fuel gauge, sending unit (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:12:07 -0500
I noticed in my Moss catalog last night that they say that a defective voltage stabilzer can cause the fuel gauge to stop working. Maynard Hirsch /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool ///
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00196.html (6,961 bytes)

222. RE Planes and names (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:41:37 -0500
The P-51 orignally had an Allison engine and mediocre performance. Only after a BRITISH engine was installed did the plane become the top prop plane of WWII Maynard Hirsch /// or try http://www.team.
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00227.html (6,501 bytes)

223. RE: Trains Planes etc. (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:46:28 -0500
My 78B is named Agatha. When my soon to be ex-wife asks why I spend so much time in the garage I reply: Cause after I'm through screwing with Agatha, I'm satisfied. Maynard Hirsch /// or try http://w
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00228.html (6,467 bytes)

224. RE: Speedo (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 09:50:41 -0500
The most common cause of a jumping speedo is the cable. You can try lubing it (there are various devices one the market) or just replace it. Maynard Hirsch /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majo
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00302.html (6,750 bytes)

225. RE: Wire source (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:33:14 -0500
Two ideas 1. If the wiring is really bad, get a new wiring harness. It is not that hard to install. 2. If all you want is wire for patching/repair get a wiring harness from a parts car and cut to you
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00672.html (6,560 bytes)

226. Re: Bleeding clutch cylinders, now brake adjustment (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:35:12 -0500
I use an automotive A/C tool. It is a reversible ratchet with a 1/4" square Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00673.html (6,764 bytes)

227. RE Blinkers not working (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:40:38 -0500
There are two possible (and likely) scenerios: 1. There is a poor ground on one or more turn signal bulbs. A bad ground will let the bulb light but not flash. Check the grounds. Or, get an electronic
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00674.html (6,813 bytes)

228. Re HS4 rebuild (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:47:22 -0500
John Twist, Ada, Michigan does a great job. You might consider going to one of his tech sessions and do it yourself under his tutelage. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Ar
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00675.html (6,382 bytes)

229. RE: Steering question (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:49:35 -0500
There are a number of possibilites. Are the tires the same size? Are the tire pressures set properly? Are the kingpins binding? Disconnect the tie rod ends and see if the wheels swing freely. Is the
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00783.html (6,710 bytes)

230. RE: Ramifications of Gasahol (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 08:12:59 -0500
The otherproblem withGasahol, in addition to possibly causing gunk from the gas tank to get to the carbs is on the rubber parts. ZS carb diaphrams are affected. Some of them swell. Also, rubber compo
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00809.html (6,805 bytes)

231. Re Starting Problem (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 09:48:32 -0500
The 78's had a starter realy. It is the 35mm film can sized thing closest to the firewall on the right side. There are four leads. The black is ground. Take a voltmeter to the wire from the ignition
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00858.html (7,460 bytes)

232. RE: No juice to plugs (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 08:26:34 -0500
You have to find out the failing component (DUH). Where are you checking the spark? Check it out at the coil lead. Sometimes the rotor or cap shorts out due to a carbon streak, especially if you are
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00910.html (6,901 bytes)

233. RE: And a question (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 08:31:57 -0500
Not getting into the reasons why, but sometimes a feedback in the indicator circuit can cause the diodes to blow. Go to Radio Shack and buy a rectifer diode (cheap, 2 for $1.49), put in the indicator
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00912.html (6,725 bytes)

234. RE: Gasoline/Octane (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 08:35:18 -0500
Remember that the octane requirements are for stock engines. If any work has been done to the engine, such as changing pistons to non-stock, shaving the head, advancing the timind, the requirements c
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00914.html (6,684 bytes)

235. RE: Honor insulted (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 08:50:22 -0500
You say your car doesn't leak. Have you check the oil lately? <VBG> Afterall, they only leak when there is oil in it. Maynard /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://w
/html/mgs/2002-04/msg00917.html (6,497 bytes)

236. RE: Handbrake (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:32:16 -0600
Are the rear brakes properly adjusted? Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool ///
/html/mgs/2002-03/msg00018.html (6,340 bytes)

237. RE: Handbrake (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:34:58 -0600
When adjusting the rear brakes, the wheels should barely turn. Yours sounds too loose. If the brakes only touch in some places, replace the drums or have them turned. Maynard Hirsch /// /// mgs@autox
/html/mgs/2002-03/msg00019.html (6,462 bytes)

238. RE: Steering Wheel positioning (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:37:18 -0600
A lot depends on why the wheel is not centered, and how far off it is. If you removed the steeriing column, I'm afraid that all you can do is trial and error. Just re-remove the shaft and relocate it
/html/mgs/2002-03/msg00064.html (6,841 bytes)

239. RE: Tin worm (It grows up to be an iron moth) (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:39:48 -0600
The best bet is to seal the holes, otherwise moisture will get in and cause more rust. Depending on your predilections, you can either replace the whole floor, cur and patch, or use fiberglass. Mayna
/html/mgs/2002-03/msg00065.html (6,877 bytes)

240. RE: Intake (score: 1)
Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 15:54:57 -0600
Go with the SUs. Down draft Webers loose it at high rpms, side draft at low rpms. (Or it's the other way around). Good SU's are trouble free, good at all rpm, and are very forgiving when it comes to
/html/mgs/2002-03/msg00219.html (7,195 bytes)

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