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21. RE: [Non-MG] Dremel tool (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 14:28:57 -0500; Hi Carol! On the Dremel Tool, I have had these for years. My first was not variable speed and I found that I really needed to slow the thing down a bit so I had to buy a speed control box that dremel; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01635.html (9,765 bytes)
22. RE: U-Joint HELP (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 06:15:54 -0500; IMHO, the best way to do this is to use two sockets and a vise. one of the sockets is small enough to easily fit down into the holes where the u-joint cup is and the other big enough for a cup to go; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01682.html (7,984 bytes)
23. RE: AA and RAC Badges, SU Choke setup (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 20:45:33 -0500; Hi Roger, I saaw an ad for old, used AA badges in the Triple C Motor Accessories catalog. They are at 1900 Orange St., York, PA 17404 1-888-854-4081. They price these at $39.95 Grill type and $49.95; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01732.html (9,906 bytes)
24. RE: engine considerations (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 22:34:08 -0500; I tried the cooking class..ended up in a class called Bachelor Foods. Sort of disappointing. I found no girls and that it was where the thugs went when they washed out of shop class....Bummer. Should; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01742.html (8,153 bytes)
25. RE: Re: Engine Oil (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Sat, 25 Oct 1997 09:15:31 -0500; I second this Castrol 10w40 in the winter months (Wisconsin) and Castrol 20w50 for the summer months. When I was enlightened about 20w50, Castrol was the only brand you could get. That has a lot to w; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01772.html (8,938 bytes)
26. RE: AA and RAC Badges, SU Choke setup (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 08:55:38 -0600; Naw, American Automobile Association is AAA. My books say AA means just Automoble Association. It's a similar thing but in Britain. I think it was started in the 1920s. John Morris Nory: AA is is the; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01816.html (9,612 bytes)
27. RE: AA and RAC Badges, SU Choke setup (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 11:45:54 -0600; e-mail for Triple-C is "Sales@triple-c.com" I don't see any mention one my catalog for a web page. John Morris What is the URL of their web page? Mike Donoho 57 MGA 1500 Fergus Falls MN; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01914.html (10,907 bytes)
28. RE: Want Ignition Switch 53 TD (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 11:28:33 -0600; I have had Ignition switches and horn buttons/ headlamp dimmer switches rebuilt at the Withworth Shop. They do a really nice job. John Morris At the GOF last summer Whiworth Shop ( I think) had a dis; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg01915.html (7,589 bytes)
29. RE: Stripped Alloy Bolt Hole (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 18:56:26 -0600; Laughed so hard I almost spilt me Bass Ale down the keyboard! I would give Locktite form a thread a try. I've used it in several spots including "gluing" the brass fuel inlet into an SU float bowl l; /html/mgs/1997-10/msg02037.html (9,368 bytes)
30. RE: Rubber Bushing Lub (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 06:37:12 -0500; Yes, actually, motor oil will cause some types of "rubber" to soften and swell. I'd stay away from petrolium based lubes. You would be better off using a silicone lubricant. I've used dish washing li; /html/mgs/1997-09/msg00190.html (8,581 bytes)
31. RE: This grinding is driving me NUTS!! (score: 1): Author: Patti & John Morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 16:19:51 -0500; I have a similar problem with my A. Some times it is stubborn going into = first. sometimes the lever won't go all the way in...sometimes it does = and there is the chirp or a little grinding. Other; /html/mgs/1997-08/msg00127.html (9,585 bytes)
32. RE: A 57 A question (score: 1): Author: Patti & John Morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 16:23:57 -0500; My '57 A has an older factory tonneau cover that follows the pattern = Clausager shows to be used from late '58 or '59. It uses 6 lift-o-dots = and the 2 turn button fasteners on the back and 6 lift-; /html/mgs/1997-08/msg00128.html (8,659 bytes)
33. RE: Main bearing problem (score: 1): Author: Patti & John Morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 01:41:23 -0500; Remember that you have standard bearings. Make sure that you have the = correct bearing set for your car and not for something else. Any work = done to the crank..turning or polishing will make the c; /html/mgs/1997-08/msg00145.html (9,346 bytes)
34. RE: MGB Head (score: 1): Author: Patti & John Morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 21:57:26 -0500; Hi Thomas, Replacing valve seats is a job for the machine shop..even if you already have inserts. Don't even think about it. You might be able to replace the valves IF the seats are in really good co; /html/mgs/1997-08/msg00188.html (8,133 bytes)
35. RE: MGA, thanks and questions (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 18:14:09 -0500; Hi Rob, The fender piping was always made of PVC and was a grey color as was the = piping around the grill and under the tail lamp plinths on the 1600. Have only used POR15 silver exhaust paint. This; /html/mgs/1997-08/msg00800.html (8,515 bytes)
36. RE: TD Dash (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 06:21:52 -0500; Hi Mike, If the holes are really oversize, I'd drill the hole bigger and glue in a plug cut from a piece of dowel rod. Then redrill for the correct size screw. If the hole was just loose, I'd cheat a; /html/mgs/1997-08/msg00980.html (7,017 bytes)
37. MGA rear axle hubs (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 06:03:43 -0500; I have a wire wheel MGA with worn hub spines on the rear axle. I'm = wondering if anyone out there has had good or bad experiences pressing = new hubs onto old axle shafts? THANKS!!!! John Morris 57; /html/mgs/1997-07/msg00695.html (6,632 bytes)
38. FW: Front wheel shake (score: 1): Author: Patti & John Morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 20:19:16 -0500; Ok list I have a confession. My '57 MGA develops a shake in the steering = at 65-70 mph. I assume this is related only to the front wheels because = I only feel it in the steering wheel. I know that; /html/mgs/1997-07/msg01149.html (7,503 bytes)
39. RE: Main bearing problem (score: 1): Author: Patti & John Morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 19:30:30 -0500; Check to make sure the caps are in the correct order that they were = removed and that the front of the caps are facing towards the front of = the block. This would apply mostly to the center main ca; /html/mgs/1997-07/msg01929.html (8,554 bytes)
40. RE: front wheel bearings (MBG GT) (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 07:24:16 -0500; Hi Stef, Sounds like you have the roller part of the wheel bearings out but = you're wondering how to remove the cone shaped inner races and the oil = seal from the back (inner) side of the hub.=20 T; /html/mgs/1997-05/msg00073.html (10,469 bytes)

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