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101. RE: Kingpin bushings!!! (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Oct 97 01:13:11 UT; The Machinists that I have talked with will not ream them because they think that both ends should be reamed at the same time to insure that the alignment between top and bottom remains correct. Thi; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00353.html (11,465 bytes)
102. SMOG (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Oct 97 14:27:04 UT; No address for SMOG, only phone number. Sprite Midget Owners Group Dick & Donna Santana: 408-782-9366 Larry Miller; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00367.html (6,548 bytes)
103. Brake Lines (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Oct 97 14:35:13 UT; Hi All Just thought I would start a new thread on another brake related subject. Has anyone evey made their own brake lines for a Spridget? If you have, what type of material did you use? What type o; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00368.html (7,449 bytes)
104. Building a Spridget (long) (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Oct 97 17:18:04 UT; Hi All Since I am in the process of building a Spridget (in this case a 59 Bugeye) pretty much from scratch, I have been asked by some members of the list to chronicle this saga. I'm sure that I will; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00371.html (15,206 bytes)
105. RE: Brake pad upgrade (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Oct 97 17:30:09 UT; Never used anything other than a stock Spridget pad. My bugeye was/is so slow that it never needed much more extra stopping power than what dragging my foot out the side could provide. But as the en; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00372.html (7,899 bytes)
106. RE: SMOG - Now a long stream of thought dialog (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Oct 97 19:12:14 UT; I Agree with most of what you say. This list seems to have brought the watcher in the woods out into the open. From comments that I have seen, it would appear that a lot of us were on other lists and; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00375.html (12,951 bytes)
107. RE: ball joint boot lube (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Oct 97 20:31:52 UT; Then you are in for a suprise the first time you remove one. Larry Jeff, doesn't the oil just lube the rack itself? I haven't had the boots off, since they are still good, but assumed that they are; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00377.html (8,869 bytes)
108. Building a Spridget (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Oct 97 20:39:27 UT; I forgot to mention that I welcome all comments on this thread. You can send them directly to me or to the list for all to see. Feel free to tell me how dumb I was for doing something and how I shou; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00378.html (7,052 bytes)
109. RE: Rump prints on my bonnet (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 14:21:41 UT; The problem is that the metal has been stretched. It can be put back to somewhere near its original shape and tension using heat and a shrinking hammer but you have to know what you are doing. If yo; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00391.html (7,871 bytes)
110. RE: Bugeye Door Panels (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 16:24:56 UT; Are you talking about the door pockets? If so, there was not any design on them that I remember. My originals are just curved particle board with a rounded metal edge piece on the top that just slip; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00393.html (8,795 bytes)
111. RE: Bugeye Door Panels (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 17:40:40 UT; You're right, after replying to the first post on this from memory (I should know better) I went out and looked at my originals. There is a slight indentation in the panel that goes out to about an; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00396.html (9,102 bytes)
112. Rods Post on Door Panels (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 17:43:50 UT; I did it again. I sent my reply to Rods post on Door Panels to everyone plus the list and to myself. Sorry about that. Larry; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00397.html (6,736 bytes)
113. More Rear Shocks (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 18:17:38 UT; I tryed Franks suggestion on removing the top three leafs from the springs. This certanly makes it eaiser to compress the spring to install the shock but the shock is still fully extended when the we; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00399.html (7,463 bytes)
114. RE: Fiberglass panels etc (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 18:31:44 UT; Its pretty but too garish for my taste in street cars. It kind of looks like a racing Porsche 914. Besides I like the rubber bumper cars and I prefer a real bumper to a fiberglass crush piece. I thi; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00401.html (9,176 bytes)
115. RE: Pulling Engine -- ideas? (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 18:59:22 UT; I use a ratcheting hand lever crank and pulley that I bought from a local auto parts store for about $25. This one has a nylon rope but they make them with a steel cable. I attach it to a rafter in; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00403.html (9,304 bytes)
116. RE: Pulling Engine -- ideas? (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 19:02:35 UT; If you use a leveler you dont't need another chain, the leveler has the chain with it. Larry Hey Y'all, I have finally decided to yank the engine/gear box to fit a Datson 5-spd tranny. I have been t; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00404.html (8,312 bytes)
117. RE: Fiberglass panels etc (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 19:29:41 UT; The only thing that I have seen is black and its not really a paint but really improves the appearance of old rubber bumpers and trim. They can be painted though. The paint requires an additive that; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00407.html (10,737 bytes)
118. Tools (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 19:48:34 UT; Hi All Has anyone bought any of the "MetrInch" tools? They are advertised as fitting, SAE, Metric, Whit worth, Britsh Standard, and British Fine nuts and bolts. Just wondering if they really work. La; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00409.html (6,715 bytes)
119. RE: leveling fixture (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Oct 97 20:08:27 UT; But can you adjust it while the engine is on it? Larry You can purchase a 2 ft length of steel Dexangle( has holes and elongated sslots) at a local hardware store and bolt a towing pad from our LBC t; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00414.html (7,223 bytes)
120. Shocks(I'm Ready To Quit) (score: 1): Author: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>; Date: Sat, 25 Oct 97 01:47:49 UT; Hi All As I said in my last message I removed the springs two days ago and removed the top three leafs. Today I thought that I would remove them again and replace one leaf since it looks like the sho; /html/spridgets/1997-10/msg00427.html (7,613 bytes)

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