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References: [ +from:peketzu@verizon.net: 21 ]

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1. Re: nuts? (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 12:19:36 -0700 (PDT); I believe the brass nuts should be used on the downpipe studs; steel for the intake/exhaust manifolds. Probably more to do with strength and accessibility (some of the manifold stud locations are cra; /html/6pack/2006-04/msg00287.html (6,599 bytes)
2. Re: High quality TR6 spark plug wire set? (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 11:43:17 -0700 (PDT); Magnecor lists applications specific to the TR6. Rick O. 72 TR6; /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00013.html (6,650 bytes)
3. RE: Spark plug wires (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 09:12:33 -0700 (PDT); I snugged my coil boot with a small, black nylon tie-wrap. The fit wasn't too loose, but it easily slipped off because I put dielectric grease inside all the boots "just because." Rick O. 72 TR6; /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00044.html (6,694 bytes)
4. RE: Stromberg adjust (score: 1): Author: "Mr RICK ORTHEN" <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Sun, 7 May 2006 08:59:01 -0400; I've always thought of it as "Left Lean, Right Rich" referring to the direction you turn the hex tool. A good starting point is 3 turns lean from full rich. Full rich is when you turn the hex to the; /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00088.html (6,821 bytes)
5. Re: Idle speed revisited (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 11:06:56 -0700 (PDT); If you have confirmed no external vacuum leaks (including the throttle shaft bushings), then I would (1) shut the thermostatic plunger on the side of each carb, and/or (2) blank-off your air bypass v; /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00126.html (6,654 bytes)
6. RE: 205/70-15 vs. 215/70-15 (score: 1): Author: "Mr RICK ORTHEN" <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 09:38:14 -0400; I have 205-70/15's mounted on 6.0 x 15 Revolution 5-spoke alloys [73.1 C/B, ET08?]. These tires are as wide as anyone should want to go as I get some slight rubbing on the front wings when backing up; /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00164.html (7,241 bytes)
7. RE: 205/70-15 vs. 215/70-15 (score: 1): Author: "Mr RICK ORTHEN" <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 21:09:00 -0400; All I know is the 6.0-inch Revolutions I bought were dimensioned specifically for the TR6 yet I indeed have wing rubbing ONLY when reversing with the wheels at full lock. Perhaps my urethane suspensi; /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00182.html (7,602 bytes)
8. RE: Front Suspension Assembly Question (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 05:59:44 -0700 (PDT); I've also done the front suspension R&R as Vance described. On the removal, a spring compressor is not absolutely necessary as the weight of the car on a jack stand placed beneath the shock tower/low; /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00260.html (6,918 bytes)
9. Replacing the Brake Servo (score: 1): Author: "Mr RICK ORTHEN" <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 18:52:14 -0400; Well, after 34 years, the brake servo (booster) on my TR6 has started leaking vacuum when the brakes are mashed. I have a small collection of used servos, one of which should be a great replacement.; /html/6pack/2006-05/msg00277.html (6,609 bytes)
10. RE: 236 mile brand new TR6? (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2006 13:51:05 -0700 (PDT); Whoever takes title to this rarity should help us all by doing a complete photo documentary of its appearance. That would help preserve for all of us what BL intended for the TR. Rick O. 72 TR6; /html/6pack/2006-06/msg00007.html (6,758 bytes)
11. Re: Radiator question (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 07:02:55 -0700 (PDT); How's your oil pressure? Sometimes an unexpected creep in coolant temp could be the result of increased friction on bearing surfaces due to excessive wear. Are you due for a rebuild? Just a thought.; /html/6pack/2006-07/msg00026.html (7,385 bytes)
12. Re: Priming Oil Pump (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 14:03:48 -0700 (PDT); First, remove the distributor drive dog and grind the end of similar diameter bar stock to match the notch on the end of the dog. Chuck the bar in your drill and mate with the oil pump drive. Squeez; /html/6pack/2006-07/msg00217.html (6,880 bytes)
13. Re: Triumphtune valve cover (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 07:35:04 -0700 (PDT); Sounds like you got a badly made repro; I bought my NOS Triumphtune cover on ebaY a few years back and it was in excellent condition. You will need to make your own cork gasket as the stock one is t; /html/6pack/2006-07/msg00290.html (7,008 bytes)
14. Re: [TR] '74 TR6 over heating (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 12:41:57 -0700 (PDT); The PO removed the t-stat to work around the overheating issue. Don't risk any further damage to your engine; have the radiator recored to modern specs before you continue. I had mine done for about; /html/6pack/2006-08/msg00028.html (6,617 bytes)
15. Re: Rocker oil supply line (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 11:21:33 -0700 (PDT); Kai--Instead of a smaller feed line, just insert a roll pin in the inlet (takeoff) end of the line. I think it was Richard Good who told me that. Rick O. 72 TR6; /html/6pack/2006-08/msg00114.html (7,042 bytes)
16. RE: Engine Block (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2006 06:13:46 -0700 (PDT); John--What's involved in doing an "offset bore"? Thanks. Rick O 72 TR6; /html/6pack/2006-08/msg00162.html (7,005 bytes)
17. Re: "running on" (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 08:02:02 -0800 (PST); For around $5, I'd get a can of SeaFoam and vacuum drag it through your brake booster line to your cylinders. Let it soak there overnight before taking another spirited run. If your run-on goes away; /html/6pack/2006-11/msg00125.html (7,459 bytes)
18. Re: "running on" (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 11:58:46 -0800 (PST); Use the "Motor Treatment" in the pint can.; /html/6pack/2006-11/msg00128.html (6,898 bytes)
19. Re: Magnecore Wires (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 08:42:01 -0800 (PST); http://www.lbcarco.com/cgi-bin/gen5?nextform=/magnecor.html&o=&a=&t=_top I have the KV85 (8.5mm diameter) cable set and have had great success with them for a number of years now. Rick O 72 TR6 CC801; /html/6pack/2006-12/msg00046.html (6,851 bytes)
20. Re: slightly off topic (score: 1): Author: RICK ORTHEN <peketzu@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2007 10:45:11 -0800 (PST); Why not replace the copper with plastic? Today's plastic water lines (e.g., FloGard Gold) are corrosion-proof, energy efficient, quiet, cheaper, and much easier to install than copper. Rick O.; /html/6pack/2007-01/msg00085.html (6,712 bytes)

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