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61. RE: Tires - good news (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 06:51:03 -0700
Might take some fiddling, but I ran 205/55-15 on my street TR3A under "stock" bodywork on steel TR6 wheels. I never did quite get the rear axle square to the body, so one rear tire would rub lightly
/html/fot/2005-09/msg00437.html (7,543 bytes)

62. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 22:45:41 -0700
Any idea how much leakage is considered allowable ? Randall
/html/fot/2005-08/msg00163.html (8,138 bytes)

63. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 10:00:45 -0700
Been trying to buy one on eBay, but I keep getting outbid. Guess others want them more than I do. I'm guessing that the leakage current should be well below 1 ma for a healthy condensor. Guess I'll
/html/fot/2005-08/msg00179.html (8,212 bytes)

64. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 15:38:58 -0700
Actually, it's the square root of two, or about 1.414. But the trick in creating a voltage tripler is to arrange the circuit such that the first capacitor winds up in series when the input is chargi
/html/fot/2005-08/msg00186.html (8,419 bytes)

65. RE: TR6 rod bearing saga (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 10:41:47 -0700
NAPA Online still lists Clevite rod & thrust bearings for the TR6; and Clevite rod bearings for the TR2-4A. No mention of undersizes though, oddly enough. There was talk last year of having King mak
/html/fot/2005-08/msg00255.html (8,661 bytes)

66. RE: Overlap (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 23:09:06 -0700
If you were able to see through the throws, and looked at most crankshafts from the end, you'd see that the rod journals overlap the main journals slightly. Not much, but usually enough that a thin
/html/fot/2005-08/msg00324.html (6,953 bytes)

67. RE: decking a tractor engine block (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:41:44 -0700
Just out of curiosity (as the block in my now wrecked TR3A appears to have been cut wrong by the factory) ... is it impractical or impossible to cut the liner seats deeper in the block ? Randall
/html/fot/2005-08/msg00366.html (8,297 bytes)

68. RE: decking a tractor engine block (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 12:52:43 -0700
Isn't it close to zero to begin with ? Ok, this is a little crazy ... why not an additional gasket just over the top of the block and not the liners ? As Bill pointed out, it only has to hold coolan
/html/fot/2005-08/msg00367.html (8,081 bytes)

69. RE: decking a tractor engine block (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2005 15:31:20 -0700
My apologies if I gave the wrong impression, Jack. I likewise have plenty of blocks sitting around, and no current plans to try to remachine the one in the wrecked car. In fact I should probably thr
/html/fot/2005-08/msg00369.html (8,049 bytes)

70. RE: what do you do for wiring (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2005 11:45:45 -0700
Most racers build a new setup just for racing, with more attention to simplicity, reliability and in some cases redundancy than the stock harness provides. Big, positive, (ugly) toggle switches inst
/html/fot/2005-07/msg00002.html (8,921 bytes)

71. RE: what do you do for wiring (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2005 10:18:50 -0700
I could be all wet, but I wouldn't think you'd want fuses in a race car except maybe for non-essentials like lights. Seems to me replacing a wire or even the whole harness after the race would be be
/html/fot/2005-07/msg00012.html (8,100 bytes)

72. RE: what do you do for wiring (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 00:28:15 -0700
Ditto for Stag and PI TR7/8. Randall
/html/fot/2005-07/msg00022.html (7,688 bytes)

73. RE: TR6 TRANS TO A TR3 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 08:51:17 -0700
Works good for me. Doesn't engage the pilot bearing as much, but it doesn't seem to be a problem. You'll need to drill new holes (or elongate current holes) in the rear crossmember, the 4-synchro bo
/html/fot/2005-07/msg00024.html (7,152 bytes)

74. RE: BTW points (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2005 14:54:48 -0700
TRW did own at least some of Lucas. There have been so many companies with rights to use the Lucas name in certain markets that it's hard to keep track. But TRW no longer exists, and various pieces
/html/fot/2005-07/msg00124.html (7,967 bytes)

75. RE: mph formula (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 17:56:53 -0700
Engine rpm divided by transmission/OD ratio (which is 1.0 in 4th gear direct), divided by final drive ratio, divided by tire turns per mile, all times 60, gives speed in mph. Randall
/html/fot/2005-07/msg00141.html (6,817 bytes)

76. RE: BTW points (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 04:22:33 -0700
That sounds like the infamous Ford Fiesta alternator. It was originally made by Bosch, but looks and fits exactly like a Lucas. Puts out more current than the standard Lucas ACR and is bolt- and plu
/html/fot/2005-07/msg00147.html (8,565 bytes)

77. RE: Anyone out there have a part number or vendor for a (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 19:49:07 -0700
I don't, but if you measure the diameter of the crank, and the approximate width you need, the NAPA store in Gardena, CA has a Speedi-Sleeve catalog by dimensions. Napa Auto Parts (310) 324-1171 (32
/html/fot/2005-07/msg00225.html (6,986 bytes)

78. RE: TR6 TRANS FOR A TR3 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 20:15:25 -0700
There were two different bearings used for TR6, the early bearing had the outer race incorporated while the later bearing ran directly against 4th gear (the input shaft). The early bearing was a lig
/html/fot/2005-06/msg00017.html (7,648 bytes)

79. RE: J-type overdrive (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 17:20:25 -0700
FWIW, Richard, I had almost exactly the same complaint with my J-type ... replacing the O-rings in the solenoid did wonders for it. Randall
/html/fot/2005-06/msg00060.html (7,551 bytes)

80. RE: J-type overdrive (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 18:39:36 -0700
I did both ... most likely it was the ones inside that made the difference. Buna-N (nitrile) is the right material ... I got all mine from an O-ring kit bought many years ago at Horrible Freight for
/html/fot/2005-06/msg00064.html (8,521 bytes)

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