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101. RE: [TR] Coils, Wires, Ignition upgrade with 'hot rod' parts (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 16:27:41 -0800
Just one question, Jeffrey. Is the center conductor metal, or carbon ? It's been my experience that "carbon" core wires do not last well with the piercing screws in the stock TR2-4 cap. The screw do
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00404.html (7,493 bytes)

102. RE: [TR] Dorsey the Door Dodo (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 21:27:57 -0800
Open the door and insert the check strap where it belongs. Turn it so the angle matches the angle of the door. As mentioned, there should be a short section sticking out of the vertical body section
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00411.html (9,396 bytes)

103. RE: [TR] TR4 Trip meter reset knob (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 08:43:54 -0800
Both types were used at different times. I'm not sure when the changeover was, but the earlier TR3A heads were as Tim originally described. Perhaps it changed at the same time as the glass ? Randall
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00425.html (7,254 bytes)

104. [TR] RE: (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 08:47:31 -0800
Or, just remove the wires from the cap, cut off 1/2" from the end, and put them back in. Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00426.html (6,501 bytes)

105. RE: [TR] Silicone Wires with Screw Terminal Dizzy Cap (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 14:09:09 -0800
Yes, lots. It also does not pierce the conductor but squeezes it. I suspect it's the piercing that is really the problem. Can't tell you what car it's for (Mini perhaps ?) but there is a 4-cyl Lucas
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00433.html (9,048 bytes)

106. RE: [TR] hood sticks, again (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2006 18:22:00 -0800
Should be. Not all that critical. The length of the straps can be changed to adjust the tightness. If you live where it gets cold, you might want to use an old trick : leave the rearmost bow free fr
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00444.html (8,213 bytes)

107. RE: [TR] Leaky rear axle oil seal replacement (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2006 19:15:10 -0800
To just change the oil seal, you remove the halfshaft with the hub still installed on it (thereby avoiding the need for the special hub puller). Look on the backside of the brake backing plate, you
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00447.html (7,904 bytes)

108. RE: [TR] Leaky rear axle oil seal replacement (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 08:02:40 -0800
Another reason to check it beforehand would be to see if it needs adjustment. Might save you one round of dis/reassembly. Also don't bother trying to measure if the other halfshaft isn't in place <G
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00454.html (7,611 bytes)

109. RE: [TR] Re: SPAM on Triumph e-mail list, and Truimph (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 08:36:35 -0800
I doubt that seriously. I've been on this list (and several others) for a long time; and I get less spam than anyone I know. One of my "secrets" is that I never open mail in HTML format from an unkn
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00455.html (9,353 bytes)

110. RE: [TR] Re: SPAM on Triumph e-mail list, and Truimph (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 21:55:16 -0800
Not a full solution, but you can limit that kind of spam by not getting on their list of addresses in the first place. For example, if you know that the images contain text, that means you are openi
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00479.html (8,078 bytes)

111. RE: [TR] TR3A distributor help needed (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 22:08:18 -0800
Are you saying it indicates zero ohms, or infinite ohms ? I don't understand ... the white wire should go to the + terminal on the coil, not the condensor. Sounds like there is not a good connection
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00480.html (9,578 bytes)

112. RE: [TR] hood sticks, again (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 22:11:37 -0800
Hmmm, I'm not even sure how that's possible. Do you mean the dog legs folded up ? In any case, I've driven thousands of miles with the rearmost bow not connected to the strap (including through the
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00481.html (7,582 bytes)

113. RE: [TR] Triumph Clutch Line Question (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 22:12:22 -0800
What loops ? Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00482.html (6,904 bytes)

114. RE: [TR] TR3A distributor help needed (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 08:29:58 -0800
Ok, using the additional information, I just re-read your original post. The advice you copied was simply wrong ... the two wire connections go UNDER the top insulator, meaning they are connected di
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00491.html (8,415 bytes)

115. RE: [TR] TR3A distributor help needed (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 08:36:49 -0800
This is all exactly backwards ! It is the post in the center, and the nut on top, that are grounded. The wires are _supposed_ to connect to the spring, which is also the connection to the moving poi
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00492.html (8,323 bytes)

116. RE: [TR] Fw: Emmisions equipment removal (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 21:32:15 -0800
Should be a middle ground, IMO. YOu need to arrange some sort of crankcase breather, and it certainly wouldn't hurt to have at least some of the fumes sucked back into the intake. But just a hose fr
/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00503.html (7,564 bytes)

117. RE: [TR] Tank straps (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 09:32:33 -0800
I don't see those bolts at all in my Moss catalog. But at least on my TR3/As, the bolts only go into captive nuts in the body; nowhere near the frame. Randall == This list supported in part by The V
/html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00189.html (6,715 bytes)

118. RE: [TR] TR3 axle U-bolts (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 21:05:50 -0800
It's my guess that either you are looking at normal manufacturing variations, or your bolts are distorted from being unevenly tightened. At any rate, I checked several from my parts bin, and they al
/html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00232.html (6,988 bytes)

119. RE: [TR] Yellow Teflon Tape (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 21:17:02 -0800
Or, you could always just use PTFE paste, which is rated for all 3 environments, plus oxygen and others. Plus has the advantage that there is absolutely no chance of a 'string' getting into someplac
/html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00233.html (7,018 bytes)

120. RE: [TR] Yellow Teflon Tape (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 18:20:21 -0800
In layman's parlance, Teflon. But 'Teflon' is a registered trademark, so PTFE is shorthand for the chemical name, which I don't recall offhand. No, PTFE actually works as an anti-seize as well, as l
/html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00252.html (9,326 bytes)

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