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101. RE: TR3 Starter Solenoid (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 21:51:06 -0800; I have no idea, but the early TR3 units had a cast body & mount instead of sheet metal. Not sure when the change was, but I believe it was late in TR3A. Randall == This list supported in part by The; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg01161.html (7,320 bytes)
102. RE: Brake Caliper Conspiracy (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2006 18:45:02 -0800; Actually, the conversation was about TR3-4, which have a single circuit braking system. Once the fluif leaks out, you have _no_ hydraulic brakes ! Of course an observant owner might notice the leak; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00731.html (6,893 bytes)
103. RE: TR4 Fan Conversion (again) (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 22:00:49 -0800; I've no idea Randy ... I converted to electric many years ago on my TR3A and never looked back. However, I wonder if anyone has looked into just using a standard Flex-a-Lite (or similar) aftermarket; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00758.html (8,051 bytes)
104. RE: A different brake question: dual circuit upgrade for TR4? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 22:03:12 -0800; Yup, pretty much. On my last order from the UK, the shipping came to about 2/3 the price of the parts. However, small packages may be quite cheap ... don't recall offhand if the limit is 1kg or 2 kg; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00759.html (7,531 bytes)
105. RE: heater core problem (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 22:12:34 -0800; My radiator shop says they cannot "do" TR2-3 heater cores. Water flush & pressure test is all. Problem is that the tubes are formed in a circle, so no way to "rod them out" even if there were a remo; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00760.html (8,874 bytes)
106. RE: rear axle brake lines (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 22:35:45 -0800; They run inside check strap, but loop around so they go through very close to where the axle meets the spring, on the front side, so there's no chance of contact with the strap. Randall == This list; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00763.html (7,364 bytes)
107. RE: A different brake question: dual circuit upgrade for TR4? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 22:44:38 -0800; To my mind, something similar to the Revington setup is the only way to go with this. My Stag has original dual-circuit brakes ... I suffered a total system failure not long after buying the car. On; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00764.html (8,825 bytes)
108. RE: starter switches and questions (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 23:55:52 -0800; The hole is "D" shaped ... .560" diameter but only .520" from the center of the flat to the other side. Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00765.html (6,811 bytes)
109. RE: Wax (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 14:00:00 -0800; That usually means it needed waxing ! The very top of the paint oxidizes and comes off when you wax ... this oxidation is what the wax is supposed to prevent. So I wouldn't blame your wax for removi; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00783.html (7,917 bytes)
110. RE: heater core problem (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 14:12:48 -0800; Shouldn't be any "dirt" unless someone was fond of filling the system with dirty water, just rust and scale of various sorts. The heaters I've tried to rescue seem to mostly be full of iron rust, pr; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00785.html (9,270 bytes)
111. RE: heater core problem (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 15:26:32 -0800; Just to be clear, my radiator shop did pressure test my heater cores. But we discussed in advance what pressure to use in testing. If anyone is in the area and needs a good radiator shop, I heartily; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00787.html (8,661 bytes)
112. RE: UK based vendors, shipping (was: a different brake question: dual circuit) (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 20:10:43 -0800; More like 5+ years. And technically, they both belong to the same company, Milard Group. http://www.mossmotors.com/AboutMoss/AboutUs.aspx However, Moss UK continues to operate independently of Moss; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00797.html (7,713 bytes)
113. RE: UK based vendors, shipping (was: a different brake question: dual circuit) (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 20:48:12 -0800; FWIW, I bought a wad of stuff on one of Rimmer's "free shipping" offers a few years back ... literally had faster service to my house than from Goleta, CA. I placed the order on Sunday night (my tim; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00800.html (8,208 bytes)
114. RE: roll bar mounting (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 21:08:25 -0800; Exactly what sort of crash are you contemplating, Paul, that will just drop the car straight down on the roll bar ? Precisely ! If a middle school brat can do it, imagine what a 2000 pound car grind; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00801.html (8,630 bytes)
115. RE: Gearing up for a gearbox (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2006 13:42:30 -0800; I don't, but there are lots of them in my club (since Herman is a member) and everyone seems to love them. However, I don't know anyone who converted to the Toy from an OD, so everyone is comparing; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00810.html (9,402 bytes)
116. Seen in another group (little LBC content) (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 11:47:50 -0800; Some of these are a bit dated, but there might be a smile or two anyway. --Original Message-- Bentley Forums - - - I used the ash tray today. How do I replace it? Camaro/Firebird Forums - - - My girl; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00827.html (9,822 bytes)
117. RE: SU Damper Oil (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 10:53:08 -0800; That is a good indication of adequate oil level in the H6 as well. My TR3 owner's manual says to fill to the top of the inner hollow shaft. I believe that is good advice. That is not the "normal" oi; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00849.html (9,809 bytes)
118. RE: SU Damper Oil (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 19:54:27 -0800; Strange. Generally there is no resistance at all until the plunger reaches the level of the oil, and then the resistance is fairly constant. Ok, I was looking at the TR2-4 Haynes (which does not men; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00850.html (8,291 bytes)
119. RE: TR3A starter set-up... (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 20:22:47 -0800; Yup. Just get the gear-drive to fit your flywheel, and it will work with the early bellhousing. Not true unless the clutch you have is the diaphragm style. Post 50k TR3A (through the end of TR4) use; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00872.html (8,091 bytes)
120. RE: TR3A Ignition Tumbler Removal (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 07:10:14 -0800; There should be a hole in the side of the switch body, usually partially blocked by the spring (which you can push out of the way). Obviously the switch must be removed from the dash. Switch must be; /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00876.html (7,391 bytes)

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