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161. RE: negative to positive ground (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 17:12:09 -0800
Actually they do say, but I'm not sure I believe it. The "high current" adapter is rated at 60 watts output (5 amps) with 8 volts input. The "standard" one is rated at 27 watts (2.25 amps). Each mig
/html/triumphs/2006-01/msg01214.html (8,510 bytes)

162. RE: TR6 ANSA exhaust too loud (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 07:00:29 -0800
I'll second that, although I don't have a TR6. The local independent muffler shop did a wonderful job on the TR3 and a good job on the Stag. The TR3 was absolutely perfect, I can still hear the ster
/html/triumphs/2006-01/msg01227.html (9,461 bytes)

163. RE: TR3A Front Turn Lamp Lens color; also 3rd stop light question (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 17:25:21 -0800
I must be missing something ... wouldn't the headlights sorta give it away ? Personally I prefer amber turn signals anyway. FWIW, I already had 4 brake lights with uprated bulbs, and the idiot that
/html/triumphs/2006-01/msg01239.html (10,689 bytes)

164. RE: TR3A Front Turn Lamp Lens color; also 3rd stop light question (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 18:10:35 -0800
I disagree, Lou, the US-spec front turn lenses were clear glass with internal flutes, not frosting. I used to use amber bulbs (before getting the amber lenses) and the outline of the bulb was clearl
/html/triumphs/2006-01/msg01242.html (9,266 bytes)

165. RE: TR3A Front Turn Lamp Lens color; also 3rd stop light question (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 19:06:31 -0800
Actually, I can't find anyplace that "red to the front" is explicitly forbidden in the CA vehicle code, and I did find one place where it is specifically required. http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d
/html/triumphs/2006-01/msg01248.html (7,978 bytes)

166. RE: TR4A Engine Questions - Round 2 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 09:28:38 -0800
Paint. Unless you have to have the block hot tanked, best to leave it alone (so I've heard). If you're keeping the same pistons or rings, they should stay with their respective bores. Rod caps must
/html/triumphs/2006-01/msg01329.html (11,056 bytes)

167. RE: HELP: TR-6 Oil Light on (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 10:30:23 -0800
That should be impossible. The oil warning light gets it's power through the brake warning lamp (according to Dan's schematic for a 72 TR6). I think some DPO has messed with the wiring in this area;
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00812.html (8,921 bytes)

168. RE: Fuel Pump AGAIN! (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 10:30:31 -0800
Pressure seems a bit low, but it's probably OK for a stock motor. However, a Facet 40105 will work as well, has a pressure rating closer to the original pump, and costs a whole lot less. http://www.
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00813.html (9,709 bytes)

169. RE: Fuel Pump AGAIN! (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 10:32:03 -0800
Just to clarify, the little rectangular Facet pumps come in several different pressure ratings (the only difference is an internal spring). If you use one of the higher pressure versions (commonly s
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00814.html (8,738 bytes)

170. RE: TR4A differential dummy bearings. (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 10:44:39 -0800
The description makes perfect sense to me, Arnold, but I am definitely not an expert in this area. I've never had to reshim any of my differentials, so I only know what I've read in books and been t
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00815.html (8,452 bytes)

171. RE: Fuel Pump AGAIN! (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 10:52:01 -0800
One other thing I neglected to mention, I carried one of the little Facets as a spare on long trips in the TR. If the mechanical pump dies while on the road, it only takes a few minutes to reroute t
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00818.html (8,219 bytes)

172. RE: Click Adjust (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 10:58:07 -0800
My first suggestion would be to forget about Click Adjust and so on, all you need is a 1/2" box end wrench, a flat blade screwdriver, and a .010" feeler gauge. But some info on what doesn't work for
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00820.html (7,695 bytes)

173. RE: Fuel Pump AGAIN! (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2005 11:17:12 -0800
Quoth FT : I've seen Fred's pump, and it looks identical to the little Facet I've been flogging. I'm reasonably confident it was actually made by Facet, and relabeled with the Purolator brand. The pu
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00821.html (7,742 bytes)

174. RE: TR3A Speedo Cable (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 22:58:41 -0800
But the speedo fitting is way over on the other side of the OD. The factory routing has it turn and run across the ledge in front of the battery box. There is a clamp at about the centerline of the
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00855.html (7,730 bytes)

175. RE: TR3(A) Steering Box (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2005 23:05:25 -0800
Seems to work fine for me. The gasket is because the machining is not perfect, but the shims are thin enough to distort and follow any irregularities in the machining. Not as long as you compensate
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00856.html (8,289 bytes)

176. RE: TR6 valve seats (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 07:41:21 -0800
If it's bad enough to cause that much trouble, then just putting air pressure on the cylinder (ala leak-down test) should produce a definite hissing in the intake or exhaust. I've been told that the
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00863.html (9,093 bytes)

177. RE: click adjust and chassis clearance (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 08:01:52 -0800
It's not a great deal. From memory, with no load in the trunk/boot and only a light weight spare tire, I have roughly 1-1/4" (two of my fat fingers). Don't recall how much fuel, but don't forget the
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00864.html (7,286 bytes)

178. RE: more than 1 kind of starter push switch? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 19:30:16 -0800
Looks pretty close to me ... AFAIK that's the only switch ever used by the factory. Of course it would be easier to identify if the seller had given us a side view. That's huge ! I don't know what i
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00869.html (10,141 bytes)

179. RE: more than 1 kind of starter push switch? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2005 17:15:23 -0800
Of course ! That explains the mounting question too ! Good call, Chris ! Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00903.html (8,584 bytes)

180. RE: Jumper Cables; Little LBC (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2005 18:36:48 -0800
They're a lot cheaper than that at McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=795 Ones I got seem to be high quality, VERY sturdy clamps, but I've not had occasion to use them yet.
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00916.html (8,465 bytes)

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