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261. RE: TR6 Stereo Installation (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 08:25:54 -0800
It could be done, but you would need a considerably different rheostat or an electronic circuit to translate the position of your existing rheostat into attenuation for the speakers. Size would like
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01537.html (8,869 bytes)

262. RE: Brake Caliper Conspiracy (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 11:33:35 -0800
It probably is. Are you willing to bet your life on it ? Just a thought experiment : Take an ordinary paper clip and try to pull it apart with your hands. Can't do it, the tensile strength is far be
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01550.html (9,427 bytes)

263. RE: Brake Caliper Conspiracy (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 11:54:39 -0800
That is the "torque-angle" approach I mentioned earlier, and while it is more accurate than simple torque, it's still not terribly accurate. Could be as simple as a micrometer to measure the bolt le
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01552.html (10,606 bytes)

264. RE: Brake Caliper Conspiracy (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 12:29:57 -0800
Nolan, all I can say is STAY AWAY FROM MY CARS ! Maybe yours do ... the springs on my TR3 were broken when I got it and many people on this list have experienced plastic deformation of springs (sagg
/html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01556.html (9,315 bytes)

265. RE: re. Going retro with cassette tapes (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 16:05:52 -0800
No doubt ... but using a proper phonograph needle would probably have damaged them just as much or even more. BTDT ... Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http:
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00763.html (8,637 bytes)

266. RE: Condensor capacitance value? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 16:36:34 -0800
I believe it's around 1 microfarad when new. Somehow I've got it stuck in my head that it will work with as little as 0.33 mfd, but I wouldn't trust that. I'd say it's certainly possible, although I
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00764.html (9,599 bytes)

267. RE: re. Going retro with cassette tapes (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 16:45:39 -0800
So what exactly is the advantage of the PlusDeck over a conventional tape deck ? Just that it pushes a button for you every hour or so ? Don't recall the name offhand, but I use ripping software tha
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00766.html (9,543 bytes)

268. RE: 3a wiring - horns (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 16:49:12 -0800
When in doubt, check the factory wiring diagram. It shows that there are two wires leaving the fuse block, one for each horn. There is a wire that crosses over, but it's on the button side of the ho
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00767.html (7,104 bytes)

269. RE: ammeter replaced with idiot light? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 21:32:06 -0800
Not much, if you don't understand it. But once you do, it says a lot, including whether you have a short at the moment or not and whether your generator is on it's last legs. Probably, but with the
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00776.html (8,768 bytes)

270. RE: Upper Radiator Hose for TR3A (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 21:38:35 -0800
You'll be sorry ! Yup, should be closer than that. The hose is rather short, and a long way from the axis of the motor mounts. The thermostat housing actually moves a good deal from side to side as
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00777.html (7,569 bytes)

271. RE: ammeter replaced with idiot light? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 07:32:58 -0800
Just to be clear, it should not be illuminated at all under these circumstances. And a dim glow generally indicates a problem elsewhere, not with the generator itself. It also may not come on even w
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00788.html (8,423 bytes)

272. RE: Lockheed Master Cylinder/TR2 restoration (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 16:45:20 -0800
Moss still has their repro listed, for almost $500, but it sounds like any decent judge should be able to tell it's a repro. Apple Hydraulics sells a rebuilt original for less than that, even withou
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00800.html (7,932 bytes)

273. RE: TR3A console wiring (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 19:29:34 -0800
Be sure to account for the ground for everything that needs one. The ground wire for the fuel gauge (which needs one on a TR2-3) for example is frequently missing. It will sort of work with the grou
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00803.html (9,334 bytes)

274. RE: Laylock O/D and transmission ID ? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 10:31:26 -0800
I've seen one like that come out of a TR, but I can't remember offhand which TR. 22/61374 is the right OD model for a TR3-early TR4. Sorry, I've no clue about the other numbers. Does the transmissio
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00820.html (7,633 bytes)

275. RE: TR4 Starter Q (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 17:57:10 -0800
How do you know it's the starter that failed ? Is it the motor or the solenoid ? Did you keep the old solenoid in the circuit ? Does it supply power only to the new solenoid, or to the entire starte
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00830.html (7,575 bytes)

276. RE: TR4 Starter Q (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2005 19:00:35 -0800
Which of course is "correct" for later TR3A. Just went through this with a local club member. If you've used the early starter with the late flywheel until it doesn't work, the starter pinion will l
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00833.html (8,479 bytes)

277. RE: Clutch not releasing (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2005 09:30:15 -0800
And was there still free play in the slave linkage at that point ? That's a classic symptom of the dreaded broken taper pin. Nope. In fact, that should be just about the correct released position, p
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00846.html (9,053 bytes)

278. RE: Replacing Rear Springs - Anything Else At The Same Time? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2005 10:40:49 -0800
Marty, I don't have much experience with TR6, but after that story I would definitely want to check out the rubber bushings in the trailing arm mounts. They may be part of your low ride height probl
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00848.html (8,776 bytes)

279. RE: Replacing Rear Springs - Anything Else At The Same Time? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2005 11:03:38 -0800
IMO, Yes. Rubber/poly is probably personal preference, the poly may add a bit of ride harshness as well as possibly increasing ride height further. I'd go for the poly if only because I've not had g
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00849.html (8,794 bytes)

280. RE: TR3A console wiring (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2005 15:21:24 -0800
Now, who can spot the glaring mistake, and for an extra bonus, the more subtle error in the accompanying text ? That link again http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4585755357 Randall
/html/triumphs/2005-11/msg00857.html (8,254 bytes)

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