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61. RE: Rear Wing? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 14:08:34 -0800; Which is exactly why spoilers are never symmetric, and airplanes can fly upside down. Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org == unsubscribe/chan; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00826.html (7,687 bytes)
62. RE: fuel gauge troubleshooting (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 10:20:22 -0800; Another thing that will help in this location is an "internal star" type lockwasher between the ring terminal and the nut. The teeth of the lockwasher bite into the surrounding metal slightly, formi; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00844.html (8,363 bytes)
63. RE: Accessory connection TR4A (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 11:24:09 -0800; What sort of radio ? If you're talking about a modern stereo, it will need several power connections. For the "battery" connection, I would suggest an in-line fuse and connect to the A1 terminal on; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00845.html (9,873 bytes)
64. RE: TR4 Dark Hours (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 20:24:09 -0800; Unlikely, IMO. Sounds more like one of the many undercoating products sold back when. POR-15 is thick for paint, but it's still paint. Chipping is probably your best bet, at least for most of it. Th; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00853.html (8,615 bytes)
65. RE: Accessory connection TR4A (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 06:49:57 -0800; While you can certainly please yourself, I would want the one wire to go to switched power, so the radio will shut off when you turn the key off. Whether A or A1 makes only a tiny amount of differen; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00857.html (9,168 bytes)
66. RE: TR4 Dark Hours (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 13:51:22 -0800; If you do try welding again, absolutely get one of the "auto-darkening" welding helmets. They are cheap and effective, so there's no sense in groping about in the dark with a hot welding stick. And; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00859.html (8,728 bytes)
67. RE: Front end bushings and parts (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 19:14:22 -0800; I don't think so, Bob. I believe that kit is just the A-arm pivots. If your suspension has gone so long that the ball joints actually need to be replaced, there will likely be other things worn out; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00863.html (9,707 bytes)
68. RE: Front end bushings and parts (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 21:50:14 -0800; Should be 8 pieces of that, two for each upper inner pivot. Those are the lower inner pivots. Also lower inner pivots, the white nylon rides on these. hole on Those should have brass inside the cyli; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00865.html (10,156 bytes)
69. RE: speedometer turnings (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 10:48:24 -0800; Paul, I'm going to agree with everyone else : you've put way too much grease in there ! The problem is not so much the resistance to turning the cable, but rather that the grease will expand when it; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00877.html (8,274 bytes)
70. RE: TR4 Dark Hours (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 10:11:54 -0800; Well I've said that ... but never about welding ! LOL Seriously though, Frank is right. Don't risk your eyesight trying to weld without proper protection. Randall == This list supported in part by T; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00895.html (7,765 bytes)
71. RE: TR3 lifting eyes (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 17:23:50 -0800; Only on later TRs, not on TR2-3A. Exactly. The stud got longer at the start of TR3B (per the Moss catalog) for just that reason. Absitively ! BTW, the bracket is supposed to run between a head stud; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00906.html (9,028 bytes)
72. RE: TR3 lifting eyes (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 07:38:52 -0800; Well that's always a problem with advice ... of course the best way to do things usually turns out to be the most expensive. But there's always a cheaper way that is usually "good enough for now". T; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00922.html (9,385 bytes)
73. RE: TR3 lifting eyes (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 08:26:52 -0800; Well, I thought this was going to be easy but I can't find a change point for when the brackets were left on the engine. The Moss catalog shows the longer head stud for the rear eye (121734/328-820); /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00926.html (10,164 bytes)
74. RE: Z-S Carb rebuild question (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 08:48:20 -0800; Randy, I'd like to point out that your fuel leaks are more likely to be caused by float valve problems, which are typically caused by crud in the fuel. A common culprit is soft fuel lines that are d; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00930.html (8,336 bytes)
75. RE: TR4 Clutch Woes (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 13:17:36 -0800; That is just about right. On mine at least, the arm moved back into the "broken" position and more-or-less stayed there relative to the fingers that operate the TOB. It seemed like the pushrod from; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00937.html (8,536 bytes)
76. RE: TR3 lifting eyes (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 13:33:01 -0800; My favorite example is knowing just how hard you can turn a wrench before the bolt twists off. I still don't get it right every time, but I do a lot better now than I did 35 years ago when I first s; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00938.html (8,899 bytes)
77. RE: TR3 lifting eyes (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 18:03:41 -0800; What evidence do you have for this statement, James ? Seems more than a bit odd that I've disassembled at least dozen or so TR3/A engines with high port heads, and found neither the lifting eye nor; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00942.html (8,880 bytes)
78. RE: direction of gearbox's front seal cover's groove? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 19:03:51 -0800; Oh, now I know what you're talking about. I believe that is an oil drain hole, so that any oil that works it's way through the bearing can easily run back into the housing. Otherwise it might force; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00946.html (7,767 bytes)
79. RE: I'mmmm back (TR3A -4A ) Gasket Seal (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 21:03:30 -0800; Wellseal itself is available from TRF, I believe. But Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket works just as well and is available at any parts store. Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Tr; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00949.html (7,259 bytes)
80. RE: Differential gear lube (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 14:34:16 -0800; Strange, I was just looking at a gallon of GL4 at Clark's Discount Auto parts a few days ago. I've not tried MT-90 in my diffs, I use only Valvoline full synthetic gear oil (which is rated GL5). The; /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00969.html (8,650 bytes)

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