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1. RE: Parts washing (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 08:50:21 -0700; I've read a number of the re-posts and answers on this topic, and am reminded of why they have so many ground cables around aircraft when fueling. Might not be a bad idea to ground the container to t; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00206.html (6,948 bytes)
2. RE: Sourcing a burl walnut dash (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 10:46:54 -0700; If you want to attempt the upgrade you can find veneer that can be applied to the dashboard with contact glue. Then the hardest part is making the round holes. I used a sort-of edge mill tool on my D; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00438.html (7,326 bytes)
3. RE: hub rebuilders (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 10:46:54 -0700; Hi All, I have hubs from Triumphs Only and have been quite happy with them. If you have the hubs off I'd suggest strongly you look at the mounting studs and think fairly hard about heli-coiling all o; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00439.html (6,877 bytes)
4. RE: hub rebuilders (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 10:47:14 -0700; Hi All, I have hubs from Triumphs Only and have been quite happy with them. If you have the hubs off I'd suggest strongly you look at the mounting studs and think fairly hard about heli-coiling all o; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00440.html (6,887 bytes)
5. RE: Trailing Arm Studs (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2005 14:01:17 -0800; I second Dick's information and add this. Every one of my studs showed some sign of damage, probably from being driven in a broke condition. Once you find one bad, heli-coil all of them. I had both; /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00126.html (7,327 bytes)
6. RE: Repairing Plywood Dashboard - What's a Bookend (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 08:59:19 -0800; I always wondered about how that was done. However on mine and the 71 dash I experimented on it was one continuous sheet of veneer. If you're looking for something to keep you occupied for the rest; /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00003.html (8,209 bytes)
7. RE: fuel sender float (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2005 11:30:49 -0800; I just looked at this and wonder if a Champagne cork would work, at least you could have fun getting the part Steve My float filled up a while back and it went fast. I knew the tank was full, but ove; /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00094.html (7,070 bytes)
8. RE: item needed (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 07:18:36 -0800; The length of time the battery will hold your memory is a dictated directly by the amount of load that memory puts on the battery. I suspect it would probably last a month or so, but your results ma; /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00126.html (7,304 bytes)
9. RE: Electrical Gremlins (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2004 09:19:55 -0700; I snipped a good bit. After looking at my wiring diagram ('72 version) there are only a few common places for all of these components that would not cause the engine to quit running also. The fuse ho; /html/6pack/2004-10/msg00028.html (8,419 bytes)
10. RE: Radiator recore (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:38:42 -0700; My vote is to go with the thicker core. The TR is marginally cooled anyway go for as much as you can. At this point you might want to consider the "pusher" electric fan in front of the radiator. The; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00027.html (7,511 bytes)
11. RE: Lighting questions (headlights and side marker lamps) (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:38:42 -0700; Be sure and order new gaskets to go behind the buckets Stephen Hanselman The large pop rivets that attach the buckets to the body can be drilled out without damaging the fenders. The side marker lig; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00028.html (7,766 bytes)
12. RE: More U-Joint problems (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 07:16:18 -0700; While hammering them out is one way, the easiest way is to press them out using a vise and a couple of sockets for tools. The problem with hammering is if you miss one time and hit the yoke the meta; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00121.html (7,498 bytes)
13. RE: Trailing arm studs and gas tank drain seal (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 16:22:43 -0700; Do your self a real favor and heli-coil or use the other one (whose name I forget) on all of the studs in the trailing arm. After inspecting mine (one was gone, one fell out and one pulled out) I fo; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00209.html (7,632 bytes)
14. RE: Brake Failure Switch (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 16 Aug 2004 06:52:41 -0700; There is only one wire. The circuit is through the body of the switch to ground for the other "side." Stephen Hanselman Regards, John Cyg CC52927LO Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.t; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00220.html (6,894 bytes)
15. RE: Volt Gauge (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 09:25:50 -0700; Unless there are two versions of '72 there is no voltage gauge in that model. Mine has an Ammeter and has Brown/white from the Alternator and a Brown wire running to the starter motor. Both of these; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00247.html (7,418 bytes)
16. RE: Sound of Engine / exhaust (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 09:38:52 -0700; Of course you can really light your eyes up doing this, be careful Stephen Hanselman An old-timers trick to see if the engine had dropped a cylinder was to disconnect and reconnect each sparkplug wir; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00267.html (7,097 bytes)
17. RE: "Hot Oil Bath" (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 09:38:52 -0700; I have been using "Hi-Temp Disc Brake" wheel bearing grease from Sta-Lube for years on anything that has a loadable bearing. I have never had a problem with any of them. Stephen Hanselman A second q; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00268.html (7,238 bytes)
18. RE: Electric fan - works good, but.... (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 08:36:17 -0700; That is correct you are seeing the charge from the alternator to the battery Stephen Hanselman Also a '72 I assumed that the ammeter would ignore the fan because it's tied directly to the battery, b; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00295.html (7,009 bytes)
19. RE: 1976 TR6 Ignition switch Moss # 667-875 (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2004 07:27:17 -0700; I think the answer to your question is "a lot of hope". Mine has also fallen apart a couple of times. I looked at the assembly and my best guess is that it is "staked" in place. I just pushed mine b; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00305.html (7,292 bytes)
20. RE: Valve Clearances (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>; Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 14:23:37 -0700; On the other hand taking out all the plugs forces you to look at them. This is a good thing in the preventative maintenance plan Stephen Hanselman here is my method.... much easier then taking out AL; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00323.html (7,681 bytes)

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