- 41. RE: Are u kidding me??? (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 18:03:43 -0800
- I use premium pump gas. The key is that I am not running a stock camshaft. You are correct that with a stock cam that about 9.5 to 1 is as high as you can go because with the stock cams, the cylinder
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00331.html (9,180 bytes)
- 42. RE: Are u kidding me??? (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 19:02:13 -0800
- Your best bet is to contact the folks who made your cam and ask for their recommendations for both compression ratio and valve springs. As a ballpark figure, comparing it to the Triumph S-2 (282 dur
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00333.html (8,985 bytes)
- 43. FW: Are u kidding me??? (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 19:16:40 -0800
- I have been thinking about your dilemma today and I think I overlooked something that might mean your problem is not as bad as first thought. When your head was cc'ed, the machinist might not have c
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00335.html (9,039 bytes)
- 44. RE: Trailing arm studs (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 20:54:41 -0800
- Sounds like you've got the right idea. If the stud takes the threads out of the trailing arm (as many do) you can fit a helicoil or a threaded insert. Hugh Barber Hollister, CA '73 TR6
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00355.html (6,865 bytes)
- 45. RE: c.r. (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 21:38:48 -0800
- I don't know what the specs for the GP2 cam is. I'm sure that Richard Good could give you spot-on advice as to what CR to run. However, having said that, usually raising the CR with a performance ca
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00357.html (6,775 bytes)
- 46. RE: From: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net> (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 15:37:45 -0800
- I use the same method, with one refinement: I went to the hardware store and bought a couple of really long 1/4" bolts. I drop these down through two holes in the lower A-arm and (corresponding hole
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00371.html (7,399 bytes)
- 47. RE: Rebush Front suspension (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 21:36:26 -0800
- When last I did this job, I used some synthetic boat trailer bearing grease. Worked just fine and as a side benefit, boat trailer grease usually has good resistance to "wash out" Hugh Barber Hollist
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00385.html (8,580 bytes)
- 48. RE: Overdrive oil (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 14:50:40 -0800
- I have put the Laycock service bulletin in my Yahoo album, located at: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tr6nut@sbcglobal.net/my_photos Hugh Barber Hollister, CA '73 TR6 Sorry about the last post. which
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00394.html (8,467 bytes)
- 49. RE: head studs (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 21:09:48 -0800
- This is just my opinion on the subject. I replace critical fasteners (rod bolts, main bolts, head studs) when I do a rebuild and the ones that I'm replacing are of indeterminate origin or history. W
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00404.html (8,170 bytes)
- 50. Re: Front Brakes (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Barber <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 17:51:01 -0800
- Bob, Here is the data on the conversion. I did it last year and I believe my cost was just under $250. The vented rotor conversion uses rotors from a Toyota Cressida. The inner hole of the Toyota rot
- /html/6pack/2005-01/msg00030.html (9,483 bytes)
- 51. RE: Distributer question (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 10:28:45 -0800
- As I understand it, the Mallory distributor for 6-cyl Jags/MG/AH also fits the TR6. The only "issues" are that you will need to provide a driving dog (which is in no way related to a driving cat, su
- /html/6pack/2005-01/msg00172.html (6,834 bytes)
- 52. RE: Where to purchase a Sachs clutch? (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2005 18:15:49 -0800
- If you want to source the components yourself, try: Auto Parts Warehouse http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/ If you want a whole kit (Sachs PP, TR FD, Toyota TB) try: British Parts Northwest http://w
- /html/6pack/2005-01/msg00208.html (7,011 bytes)
- 53. RE: roller rockers (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 20:44:51 -0800
- A possible (read: cheaper) alternative would be to get your rocker arms rebuilt. There's a place in Anderson, CA caller Rocker Arm Specialists who will take your assembly (arms and shaft) and rebuild
- /html/6pack/2004-11/msg00040.html (7,217 bytes)
- 54. RE: RE: roller rockers (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 13:08:15 -0800
- You send them the whole assembly (rockers, arms, pedestals, spacers, etc). Do the pedestals have to be reworked also? Rick O.
- /html/6pack/2004-11/msg00051.html (7,165 bytes)
- 55. RE: Fan Extension Bolt (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2004 10:27:24 -0800
- As I now have an impact wrench, I use that with 100% success. Before I acquired my impact wrench, I used another technique, which was also successful. <WARNING - Purists can start cringing now> I use
- /html/6pack/2004-11/msg00193.html (7,059 bytes)
- 56. RE: heat shield for starter? (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2004 20:38:58 -0700
- Jim Jones wrote: My header pipes (ceramic coated fyi) run beneath the starter motor. Should I be concerned about the heat affecting the it? If so I don't mind putting a shield on it, but I'd rather n
- /html/6pack/2004-10/msg00011.html (7,868 bytes)
- 57. RE: Advice on Engine Rebuild (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2004 20:56:32 -0700
- In order to answer your question correctly, one would need to know a bit more information. What is the intended use for your car? Do you live in a state that requires regular emissions testing? How
- /html/6pack/2004-10/msg00087.html (7,805 bytes)
- 58. RE: charcoal canister (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 19:16:24 -0700
- Peter Zaborski wrote:A quick question about the charcoal canisters the TR6's have.....does the canister come apart by unscrewing the bottom from the top?... Peter, It does not unscrew. It "pops" off
- /html/6pack/2004-10/msg00114.html (6,782 bytes)
- 59. RE: Differential Breather (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2004 21:19:44 -0700
- The differential breather is a cotter pin stick in a hole in the top of the diff. About as low-tech as you can get. Hugh Barber Hollister, CA '73 TR6 Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.
- /html/6pack/2004-10/msg00197.html (7,108 bytes)
- 60. RE: Differential Breather (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Barber" <tr6nut@sbcglobal.net>
- Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 09:41:52 -0700
- If you ensure that the pin moves freely in the breathing hole, you'll be OK Don't know if I'm comfortable calling it a "jiggle" pin. Sounds like something I would see on "The Man Show" :^) Check out
- /html/6pack/2004-10/msg00201.html (7,246 bytes)
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