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References: [ +from:trinitygadget@alltel.net: 225 ]

Total 225 documents matching your query.

101. RE: Rear Shock Link (score: 1)
Author: "Rick & Lori O" <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 16:47:23 -0500
Kendall--Grab 2 equivalently sized hammers, place one against the lever arm's yoke and give the opposite side of the yoke a good rap with the other hammer. May take a few raps, but it will pop loose.
/html/6pack/2004-11/msg00121.html (6,605 bytes)

102. RE: k and n filters (score: 1)
Author: "Rick & Lori O" <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 07:33:36 -0500
If I'm remembering correctly, the bolt pattern is the same except that the "bolt triangle" is upside-down with the SU's (i.e., you can use the stock housing if you flip it 180 degrees). Rick O. 72 TR
/html/6pack/2004-11/msg00154.html (6,581 bytes)

103. Re: Re: Removing original style oil filter (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 9:44:21 -0600
Phillip--Follow your hunch and DON'T use any kerosene-based engine flush. All it'll do is break loose some big stuff that'll end up clogging the oil galleries. To hasten the cleaning in a safe manner
/html/6pack/2004-11/msg00252.html (8,218 bytes)

104. Re: Auto-Rx (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 15:00:13 -0600
Jim & others--Many user testimonials can be read at www.bobistheoilguy.com NFI whatsoever. Rick O.
/html/6pack/2004-11/msg00259.html (6,729 bytes)

105. Re: oil cooler thermostat (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 7:18:56 -0600
Michael--I have run with a Mocal 16-row (?) oil cooler for a few years no without the T-stat. I don't think the T-stat is necessary since at low temps, the oil cooler design is such that the thicker
/html/6pack/2004-11/msg00345.html (7,835 bytes)

106. Re: RE: oil cooler thermostat (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 15:22:31 -0600
In the late fall through early spring months, I keep my oil rad covered with a sheet of aluminum to prevent over-cooling. It helps too that I run my car a minimum of 20 hwy miles on each outing to bu
/html/6pack/2004-11/msg00360.html (7,552 bytes)

107. Re: Re: oil cooler thermostat (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 15:29:02 -0600
This happens with and without an oil cooler. I could be wrong, but when the oil PRV unseats, a portion of the oil is routed back to the sump; filtered oil continues to flow to the engine. The real q
/html/6pack/2004-11/msg00361.html (7,943 bytes)

108. RE: convertable top question (score: 1)
Author: "Rick & Lori O" <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2004 19:54:56 -0400
Adam--Did this last year with a Stayfast top. There is no seal under the retaining plate at the rear; the piping along the rear of the top serves that function (when properly installed of course!). W
/html/6pack/2004-10/msg00106.html (7,521 bytes)

109. Re: Top folding instructions (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 7:32:31 -0500
Thanks Mike. One obscure point: The top will be attached not only to the header rail, but also to the first bow (via riveted loop) behind that rail. Rick O. 72 TR6 Check out the new British Cars Foru
/html/6pack/2004-10/msg00145.html (6,655 bytes)

110. Re: RE: engine disassembly question (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 11:14:53 -0500
Good luck finding a GOOD timing set (chainwheel, crank sprocket, chain) for $40. I bought a crank sprocket that was crap and wasn't even indexed (at the keyway) the same as my original one. I reused
/html/6pack/2004-10/msg00150.html (7,573 bytes)

111. Re: engine disassembly question (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 11:18:18 -0500
Joe--If the teeth tips are sharp/pointed, they are worn and should be replaced. Just compare the feel with a new set and you'll immediately tell the difference. I have a few thousand miles on the che
/html/6pack/2004-10/msg00151.html (7,388 bytes)

112. Re: cam shafts (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 14:20:48 -0500
Joe--I did a lot of soul searching as last winter's project with the kind help of Greg Dito. Here's my setup that I'm thrilled with: Isky Z-19 cam (268 duration, 0.400 lift) based on a regrind of a n
/html/6pack/2004-10/msg00178.html (7,392 bytes)

113. Re: Re: exhaust system replacement (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 12:04:44 -0500
A NOS Ansa went for $399 last week on ebaY with a single bidder. A steal IMHO. If I didn't already have one, I would have gone for it myself. Rick O. Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www
/html/6pack/2004-10/msg00252.html (7,865 bytes)

114. Re: Gear box identification (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 14:48:25 -0500
I believe the "25" and "28" prefixes refer to the overdrive reduction ratio, i.e., 25% and 28% reductions in engine rpm for a constant wheel rpm. I don't know what the other numbers mean. Rick O. Che
/html/6pack/2004-10/msg00271.html (6,995 bytes)

115. RE: Fan belt (score: 1)
Author: "Rick & Lori" <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 07:52:22 -0400
When I R&R'd my cam last winter, I simply zip-tied a spare belt on either side of the crank pulley on the tubular cross-member. Won't have to fiddle at all when the in-service belt pops. Rick O. 72 T
/html/6pack/2004-09/msg00027.html (6,683 bytes)

116. Re: Melted Overdrive Harness (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 7:41:20 -0500
Nope. Nope again. I prefer the lower risk of a melted OD harness than the increased possibility (IMHO) that a quirky fuse may blow. Either way, the real danger is over-revving the engine when the OD
/html/6pack/2004-09/msg00053.html (7,387 bytes)

117. Re: Re: Melted Overdrive Harness (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 13:40:39 -0500
Agree that cruising disengagement does not present mechanical issues. Really referring to winding it out with OD engaged in 2nd or 3rd. Also, the sudden disengagement may startle the driver enough t
/html/6pack/2004-09/msg00060.html (7,204 bytes)

118. Re: Electric Fan (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 10:23:12 -0500
Fan: Perma-Cool 16 puller, 3.25 depth, 2,100 CFM @8.9 amp draw (Jeg s P/N 771-19126; $92). This fan fits the stock TR6 radiator perfectly. Thermostat: Perma-Cool wiring kit w/probe thermal sensor (
/html/6pack/2004-09/msg00094.html (7,284 bytes)

119. Re: Re: Buckeye TRIUMPHS tech page (score: 1)
Author: <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 9:22:50 -0500
Nelson is interested in steam . . .http://www.nelsonslocomotive.com/home/home.htm Rick O. 72 TR6 Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
/html/6pack/2004-09/msg00209.html (7,361 bytes)

120. RE: Forwarded: '69 TR6 decal (score: 1)
Author: "Rick & Lori O" <trinitygadget@alltel.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2004 21:21:50 -0400
Paint originality does not necessarily dictate the authenticity of wing decals unless you are the original owner. An owner can rip off the "TR 6" decals and apply the Union Jacks. I believe the switc
/html/6pack/2004-09/msg00246.html (7,477 bytes)

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