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241. RE: Alternator (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 08:11:08 -0700
If you can get it started and drive it, take it to an automotive battery/alternator shop. In the Portland OR area, I use Battery X-change (NFI). They will test the alternator and battery in your car
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00022.html (7,641 bytes)

242. RE: It's BAAAADDD! (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 08:21:12 -0700
I have never dealt with this myself, but I would say if you can get crank end play back into spec with some standard or plus sized thrust washers, then your crank and block are OK. If installing the
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00024.html (8,402 bytes)

243. RE: Single Component Paint vs Clear Coat & Base (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 08:32:45 -0700
As with all things, there are tradeoffs. A two pack enamel is simple, original, and can be buffed out easily if there is a scratch. The base/clear gives a deeper shine, is more durable in the sense
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00025.html (9,171 bytes)

244. RE: Compression again (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 20:21:07 -0700
That is correct. Triumph increased the thickness of the head, thereby increasing the volume of the combustion chamber. They also increased the length of the push rod to maintain the rocker arm geome
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00058.html (7,129 bytes)

245. RE: A-Type Overdrive (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 20:29:08 -0700
With the car on jack stands, I would not expect a drop in RPMs, as there is no load on the rear wheels. Instead, I would expect the rear wheels to speed up. With the wheels off the ground, I would l
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00059.html (7,678 bytes)

246. RE: Single Component Paint vs Clear Coat & Base (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 20:48:27 -0700
You are, of course, absolutely correct on that point. I was referring to the notion that using anything other than an enamel paint is technically incorrect, as the factory used a two pack enamel, wi
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00060.html (9,084 bytes)

247. RE: seat belt parker (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 07:45:44 -0700
British Auto works carries them. I got mine there. NFI. They respond to emails. www.britishautoworks.com Vance -- Cogito Ergo Zoom (I think, therefore I go fast) TR6 Web page: http://home.comcast.ne
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00062.html (7,184 bytes)

248. RE: DOT 5 Silicone Brake fluid (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 14:09:10 -0700
I cannot categorically say that *all* DOT 5 is purple. What I can say is that all DOT I have *personally* seen is purple. No, they cannot be mixed. As I understand it that is why DOT 5 is purple, to
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00081.html (10,127 bytes)

249. RE: DOT 5 Silicone Brake fluid (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 14:18:11 -0700
Found this on the web. It implies that DOT 5.1 is NOT silicone based like DOT 5, and is therefore not compatible. Once again, mixing a teaspoon of each type will tell you if they are compatible or n
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00082.html (8,392 bytes)

250. RE: Improved engine front sealing block - Good Idea? (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2005 07:47:48 -0700
My experience has been that a thin smear of Hylomar over the mating surfaces takes care of the leak issue. As for the stripping the threads, there is no doubt that steel is superior to aluminum. My
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00089.html (8,364 bytes)

251. RE: Starter Solenoid problem (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 08:03:56 -0700
The +12 battery cable goes to "B". The wire from the ignition switch will go to either E or F (depends on the solenoid). They have installed one of the "universal" solenoids for this application, so
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00093.html (9,474 bytes)

252. RE: Cooland pressure question... (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 09:36:43 -0700
No improvements in efficiency. A higher pressure cap simply allows the cooling system to avoid *losing* efficiency under severe conditions. Vance Hello. It's been a while since sophomore year thermo
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00098.html (7,364 bytes)

253. RE: For The LBC Guy That Has Everything!! (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 07:53:56 -0700
I bought one of these a few years back. Kept my LBC on the road until the original supply was exhausted. Tried making my own from some scrap wiring harnesses, but it didn't work nearly as well. Glad
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00107.html (7,499 bytes)

254. RE: squeal shim lube (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 08:03:17 -0700
I don't think there is anything special about the big 3 variety. A local auto parts store should be able to fix you up just fine. The big three supply many things as a courtesy to their customers, a
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00108.html (7,774 bytes)

255. RE: Helicoil information needed (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 09:47:19 -0700
5/16-24 (so called UNF or fine thread) is correct for stock. However, if you go with 5/16-18 you can use an off the shelf "manifold stud" which is coarse thread (UNC) on one end, fine thread on the
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00112.html (8,241 bytes)

256. RE: Helicoil information needed (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 14:57:19 -0700
I should mention that my studs were perfect with 69,000 miles on the car. I did remove them all when I rebuilt the hubs, and did nothing other than loctite them back in when I reassembled the rear su
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00116.html (8,863 bytes)

257. RE: TR6 Windsheild (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 16:40:59 -0700
Someone was having problems with their A-type OD not engaging. I found a hyperlink to the complete factory A-type overdrive manual. Dunno if anyone is still interested, but I thought I would throw t
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00118.html (6,693 bytes)

258. RE: Sound Deadening Material (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 12:34:20 -0700
I think you want to replace it, as this sort of thing really does help keep the car quiet. There is a product called "dynamat" that is 12x12" sheets of self sticking asphalt, that I used to restore
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00131.html (8,359 bytes)

259. RE: fuel tank shield? (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 12:41:18 -0700
You are correct, and I noticed the same thing. The solution is to cut a sheet of 16 or 18 awg steel and weld in the tub just in front of the fuel tank. This is recommended by John Williams in his bo
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00133.html (8,236 bytes)

260. RE: Header Advice (score: 1)
Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 12:55:24 -0700
You will not be able to notice any improvement without a stop watch or a trip to the drag strip. That is not to say that there is not some decent gains to be had, but the "butt-o-meter" is notorious
/html/6pack/2005-06/msg00134.html (9,221 bytes)

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