Cap'n Bob: This seems to be "written in stone" now and our experience in the '60's proves otherwise. Now the intent may be questionable, but the fact is that I drove MY new Bugeye stock between San D
I envy your performance with your Judson in hot weather. My problem is different. If I keep moving "in town" I'm O.K. water temp wise. It is when I am on the freeway at extended high speeds that the
If you were to tell me that your car, any car, only gets hot to over heating only when travelling at highway speeds, but stays cool enough at in town speeds (assuming the 2 are not the same, which c
This is probably a stupid question based on the previous descriptions of your car but enquiring minds... What are you running for a muffler? You probably have a brand new, straight through type! But,
Like Mike's, my bugeye gets hotter and hotter to the point of overheating if I maintain highway speeds (above 70mph) on a day when ther temp is much over 100 degrees. This is despite an aluminum core
Let me tackle your questions one at a time. I don't think the temp gauge is out of calibration, I checked it before installing by dipping the probe in boiling water. (read 212F) The radiator cap see
The original standard size pistons (actually first rebuild for this engine) that were removed were 3 ring with one oil ring all above the wrist pin. They were the split skirt aluminum and numbered.
Fins are in good shape. A heck of a lot of them would have to separate to big problem. I've had some ratty looking radiators in the past do an acceptable job of cooling. Mike MacLean Supercharged 60
<< Temp. gauge out of calibration (or "tube" shorting out on something electrical or laying on something hot) notwistanding, I am really trying to help Mike out, here. Cap'n Bob: I realize that your
<< Hmmm! Did your Frog have the 5 ring pistons, I wonder? We're never gonna know--Last time I saw the 948, it was in a Morris truck we sold in the 70's. (Wish we hadn't sold the truck.) They were wha
Original 948 pistons on the Bugeye were aluminum split skirt with 3 compression rings and 1 oil ring (scraper) for a total of 4 rings. They were numbered 1 - 4. I had to replace mine because the bore
I think you will find that Bob will mirror what Annice has said about his Bugeye not overheating in any conditions. I have talked to Bob on this in person and changed my antifreeze to water ratio due
I have been following this thread with interest because I have the same problem with my 1275 with no blower. I can cruise about town, even on secondary roads going 50-60 MPH, hottest day of the year,
During this discussion someone on the list said that they added an oil cooler to help with cooling. They said it seemed to help but was not the end all of the problem. Mike MacLean Supercharged Ther
Just a couple of suggestions...some you may have already dealt with... A new rad cap is a cheap investment. 50x50 antifreeze/water is better. Done a leak down test yet? Not a compression check, but a
I have the opposite problem. As long as I can move above about 20-25 MPH the car is fine. At 75-80 MPH and 110F outside air temperature, the car runs between 165-180. Usually right on 170. As soon as
A penny's worth from a warm climate An oil cooler is going to help a lot. My 1380 Frogeye has an oil temp gauge and an oil cooler (13 row). When racing it, the oil temp goes to 120 Degrees C and more
I have 3 used LARGE DIAMETER steel ones for sale #6 each + postage + currency exchange or maybe swap for some brand new Snap-On socket(s) as a trade. The APT large pulley's are expensive because they
Put me down for one of them, if they aren't already taken. Me thinks that spridgets just run too hot. David Oliner 60 Bugeye 67 TR 4A have 3 used LARGE DIAMETER steel ones for sale #6 each + postage
Daniel: I'll take one too. What the heck. Should we in the states buy 'em all and ship 'em all at once? Geoff Branch '74 Meejit "Yellow Peril" '72 Innocenti 1300 Mini -- Original Message -- From <SDO