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Total 16 documents matching your query.

1. [FOT] Engine Break-in (score: 1): Author: "Gary" <vintage.racer@comcast.net>; Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 12:12:52 -0800; Question for your TR engine builders - I have rebuilt my TR-4 engine with 11 to 1 compression, mid-range Schumacher cam, good rods/pistons, lightened flywheel. For initial shake down, I took the car; /html/fot/2006-03/msg00022.html (6,836 bytes)
2. Re: [FOT] Engine Break-in (score: 1): Author: REK46@aol.com; Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 15:34:40 EST; sounds like your'e due for a rebuild after that == unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net; /html/fot/2006-03/msg00023.html (6,365 bytes)
3. [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>; Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 23:58:30 -0600; Jim, unfortunately I have no way to measure CFM, but here is some anecdotal data. In my TR4's previous build I had an Isky 777 cam, ported head (1.5" intake all the way to the seat), polished exhaust; /html/fot/2010-10/msg00215.html (7,575 bytes)
4. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@blacksburg.net>; Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 13:38:44 -0400; I have always used Rotella to break in an engine...high compression full race and regular street engines. Rotella has a higher Zinc and Magnesium content that helps to bed in bearing surfaces gradua; /html/fot/2010-10/msg00219.html (9,581 bytes)
5. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: toodamnfunky@comcast.net; Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 19:12:59 +0000 (UTC); My engine builder has me do much the same. The most critical part as far as I can tell from talking with him is the initial 20-30 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm. Do not let it idle during this time. He use; /html/fot/2010-10/msg00220.html (10,088 bytes)
6. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@blacksburg.net>; Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 15:33:36 -0400; Anyone got a use for a TR3 engine block? I've got several of them that need to find new homes soon ... if no one wants them they'll go to the scrap yard. I've got kind of a storage crisis, caused by; /html/fot/2010-10/msg00221.html (7,589 bytes)
7. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: "Norlin Engineering" <norlinengineering@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 18:10:11 -0700; My apologies, should have included that. I (and the blocks) are located near the Long Beach, CA airport, about 20 miles south of Los Angeles. Randall _______________________________________________; /html/fot/2010-10/msg00224.html (10,694 bytes)
8. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>; Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 01:07:43 -0500; Today is Friday and I have news! There is only the weekend to decide if you want one or not! But that isn't all the news I have. I will be getting the first sample badge this weekend. I will have ac; /html/fot/2010-10/msg00226.html (9,407 bytes)
9. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 23:36:43 -0700; An oil pre-lube tank connected to the galley is a great way to fill the system after a re-build. The system sees full pressure from an air supply. Works just like an accusump but you can fill the ent; /html/fot/2010-10/msg00228.html (6,796 bytes)
10. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: "Greg Solow" <gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>; Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 23:52:10 -0700; Doesn't have to be expensive. We made one from one of those pump-up pesticide sprayers and appropriate hose and fittings. John H. _______________________________________________ fot@autox.team.net h; /html/fot/2010-10/msg00229.html (9,708 bytes)
11. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: Christopher Bock <SeaCubeCo@aol.com>; Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 08:27:05 -0400; Using a tank to fill the oil passages before starting a fresh engine is always a good thing. What we do is, 1. During assembly of the engine, as each rod is installed, the rod with its bearing half i; /html/fot/2010-10/msg00230.html (7,086 bytes)
12. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: John Herrera <jrherrera90@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 11:40:48 -0400; To pressurize the oil after engine assembly I have a dummy oil pump drive which I rotate with a drill. When the oil pressure gauge shows 50 PSI then everything in my opinion is ready to fire up. Chee; /html/fot/2010-10/msg00233.html (7,753 bytes)
13. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: Andre Rousseau <andre@gt6.ca>; Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 06:22:05 -0400; They did reduce ZDDP content slightly a few years ago. The document I have indicates that the 'old' Rotella T CI-4 had 1400 ppm zinc, while the 'new' Rotella T CJ-4 has "only" 1210 ppm zinc. But tha; /html/fot/2010-11/msg00001.html (8,631 bytes)
14. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: n197tr4@cs.com; Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2010 11:33:59 -0400; Which reminds me, I'm thinking of putting my 24' enclosed up for sale locally (Albany, NY) if anyone here would like first shot. 24' haulmark, 8'wide, work bench, 110v lighting, generator door/enclos; /html/fot/2010-11/msg00002.html (6,619 bytes)
15. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: Jim%20Roelofs <bluebit@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 01:34:09 +0000 (UTC); How can I calculate the cylinder pressures in a TR3A head, with 87 mm Mahle flat pistons and 10:1 compression ratio ? Stroke is standard. If it is possible at all, as it may depend on inlet flow cap; /html/fot/2010-11/msg00011.html (8,545 bytes)
16. Re: [Fot] engine break-in (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 16:11:24 -0700; I'll be there with my TR-6-powered TVR. I haven't ordered a badge, but I would like to see one. Rich Rock _______________________________________________ fot@autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com; /html/fot/2010-11/msg00029.html (8,433 bytes)

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