I have it on reliable authority that, in the early 70's, BL issued a Technical Bulletin to their dealers which stated that it was OK to use 90wt. rear axle oil in gearboxes (no distinction made betwe
Lawrie: Thanks again. Who started the campaign to use the 30 wt.non-detergent? It makes sense and I have done it for years although some on the question its use since it is not specified in the shop
I don't know who started the campaign to use non-detergent oil. As someone said earlier, there are no combustion by-products in a gearbox so there is no need to use a detergent oil. However, I am no
Lawrie: I think the tranny oil question has been somewhat resolved now how the hell do I get the shift knob off? Have soaked it for days with no apparent impact. There are two flats on either side of
A common misconception is that the late MGB shift knobs are removed by undoing the chrome nut that is below the shift knob. Actually, inside the knob, there is another nut that goes around the shaft
I suspect that this non-detergent thing is just one of those things that get around enough to acquire legitimacy through reiteration. How many dead wrong things have you seen that "everybody knows"?
They certainly did for the V8s, that's what my V8 Workshop Manual Supplement says. Never heard about it being applied to 4-cyls though. PaulH. 90wt. more use I
<< I now have it soaking in WD40 >> Frank, do you use a screw driver chucked in a lathe as a chisel when making a table leg?? Get a REAL penetrant!! Geeez, here we go AGAIN!!! Ed
According to some correspondance I've gotten, you should be using a penetrating oil such as LPS. WD40 isn't very good as a penetrant. <<<snip>>> soaking in WD40
Er, LPS isn't a penetrant, it is a rust preventing coating. I use Kroil a lot and PB Blaster when I run out of Kroil. See http://www.kanolabs.com. David Littlefield Houston, TX '62 MGA MkII '51 MGTD