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Total 42 documents matching your query.

21. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: Ben Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>; Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 09:24:32 -0400; They make condensate pumps that collect the water in a reservoir and then periodically pump it out. You could pump it into your waste water pipe or into a storm drain. Another option is create a dry; /html/shop-talk/2009-05/msg00158.html (8,070 bytes)
22. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: Brian Kennedy <kennedybc@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 06:56:01 -0700; A big enough dry well should do the job. How about attaching it to a soaker hose? Is there something nearby that needs watering? Brian Kennedy _______________________________________________ Support; /html/shop-talk/2009-05/msg00159.html (8,581 bytes)
23. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 10:16:44 -0400; Ron, I now the problem well, living here in Va Beach. I never really worried about it. I have one of those cement blocks under my drip tube (like you have under your gutter down spouts). But the wate; /html/shop-talk/2009-05/msg00160.html (8,455 bytes)
24. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: "Don Denning" <dondenning@classicnet.net>; Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 21:14:51 -0500; Most of the drains I've seen go into a "soil stack" and if that stops up, the secondary pan catches the overflow. My overflow pan drains through tubing at the eve and onto the ground. Might be what y; /html/shop-talk/2009-05/msg00165.html (8,944 bytes)
25. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: "Mullen, Tim (IS)" <Tim.Mullen@ngc.com>; Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 11:05:11 -0500; I cleverly did this many years ago. I attached some clear plastic tubing to the outlet on the outside of the house (used a couple of adapters to size the plastic pipe down to the tubing size). Then I; /html/shop-talk/2009-06/msg00003.html (7,580 bytes)
26. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: bottorff25@verizon.net; Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 12:25:55 -0500 (CDT); /Y7Lb7Q: Permission denied _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Shop-talk mailing list http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk htt; /html/shop-talk/2009-06/msg00004.html (6,332 bytes)
27. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: ronald.olds@mchsi.com; Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 17:51:24 +0000; Thanks everyone for your advise. I do have a question on the soaker hose. Doesn't it require pressure to force the water though the walls? I would be afraid that the water would back up in the line.; /html/shop-talk/2009-06/msg00061.html (8,035 bytes)
28. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: "Nolan" <opposumking@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 05:30:37 -0400; Depends on the type of soaker hose. The cheap hard foam ones do require a good bit of pressure to get the water through. The fabric ones require none. _______________________________________________; /html/shop-talk/2009-06/msg00062.html (7,423 bytes)
29. [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>; Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 20:28:34 -0500; I recently met a guy who has a chrome plating business. He doesn't do the plating himself, but works with a commercial plater in another state. He sends them hobbyist stuff that they use to fill the; /html/shop-talk/2009-06/msg00081.html (8,364 bytes)
30. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 20:59:56 -0700; What I was told, long ago, was that it is very difficult to get nickel to bond properly to steel. If it's not done just right (some claim it's impossible), then the resulting chrome will eventually; /html/shop-talk/2009-06/msg00085.html (8,281 bytes)
31. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 21:55:47 -0700 (PDT); I have heard that most of the "chrome" is really nickel, and the actual chromium is a very thin layer on top. Doug there slightly different something to do with two layers, provides the improves the; /html/shop-talk/2009-06/msg00086.html (8,567 bytes)
32. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 15:36:27 -0400; this to Well, it depends on what you're plating, and why. For something like a bumper, where you're after the shine, the best process is copper-coat the bare part, polish the copper to mirror smoothn; /html/shop-talk/2009-06/msg00088.html (10,485 bytes)
33. [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:08:01 -0600; We are having some work done on our well and pressure tank. I have a question about the wiring. It is powered by a 220V 20A breaker. If remember correctly they used 12/2 with ground romax to run powe; /html/shop-talk/2009-11/msg00098.html (7,877 bytes)
34. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>; Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:47:00 -0500 (EST); I think so, yes. The xx/3 wire has the shielded white wire to provide a neutral for 110vac loads. I.e. on an electric stove with a 110vac light or timer or something like that. If you don't have any; /html/shop-talk/2009-11/msg00099.html (7,976 bytes)
35. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>; Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:48:21 -0500 (EST); Oh. The white conductor should be painted black in the electrical boxes by code I believe... That tells the next guy down the line that its a live wire, not a neutral. Mark _________________________; /html/shop-talk/2009-11/msg00100.html (7,556 bytes)
36. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:04:24 -0800; If it's just a 220v pump motor, it doesn't need a power ground. The motor connects only between the two hot wires (with the safety ground to the housing). And while I don't know if it's allowed by c; /html/shop-talk/2009-11/msg00101.html (7,161 bytes)
37. [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com>; Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:27:06 -0600; Thanks Donald and Mark. I guess I was not thinking about not needing the 110 voltage. At least I will not have to have a new wire run. That is good news. I was thinking the only place the white wire; /html/shop-talk/2009-11/msg00102.html (6,977 bytes)
38. [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: "Art Halfnights" <halfnights@shaw.ca>; Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 12:03:11 -0800; Howdy the relay is probably the clicking but not connecting the power. If warmer makes it work then run a 100 watt bulb close and try warming it up. Also if there was a problem with the gears being s; /html/shop-talk/2009-12/msg00041.html (6,470 bytes)
39. Re: [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: Dan Kroninger <d_kroninger@hotmail.com>; Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 20:42:33 -0500; Make a right decision! Click this link!.. http://web9.p15137332.pureserver.info/friends_links.php?ppage=07pa4 _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Donate: http://w; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00108.html (6,418 bytes)
40. [Shop-talk] (no subject) (score: 1): Author: d_kroninger at hotmail.com (Dan Kroninger); Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 20:42:33 -0500; Make a right decision! Click this link!.. http://web9.p15137332.pureserver.info/friends_links.php?ppage=07pa4; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00356.html (6,841 bytes)

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