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Total 15 documents matching your query.

1. [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: "Dan and Jenny Fest (Coles Nurseries Inc)"; Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 18:38:06 -0400; I am thinking of attempting my first engine rebuild. Although I've never rebuilt an engine , I am fairly mechanical. Can anyone describe the steps I need to follow. Especially, what I can do and what; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00016.html (7,635 bytes)
2. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>; Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 16:13:20 -0700; Disassemble. Replace worn/broken parts. Machine parts that need machining. Reassemble. Many people do the disassemble/reassemble part themselves. Most people leave the machining part to a machininst.; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00017.html (8,280 bytes)
3. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek@ameritech.net>; Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 18:27:12 -0500; To add to what Eric said, get a friend who's done an engine or two (or twenty) to give you some moral support. Someone to stop by and look and give you the confidence that all is going well, that it'; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00018.html (8,008 bytes)
4. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>; Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 19:31:23 -0400; What kind of MG do you have? I have an MGA and a Magnette. There is a tape/DVD around called "Doctor Doolin's MGB Total Engine Rebuild". Don't worry that it says MGB, they all have a LOT in common. A; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00019.html (8,309 bytes)
5. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: bspidell@comcast.net (Bob Spidell); Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 00:37:10 +0000; I've only rebuilt one engine (Austin-Healey 3000), but I had good advice and help from my father, who is an expert mechanic. The engine now has 70K+ miles. Here's what I can recommend: 1) get a good; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00021.html (10,790 bytes)
6. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: "FRED E THOMAS" <frede.thomas2@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 21:04:23 -0400; Change # 12 to 13-A, "make" sure the head is "TRUE" and no cracks between the valves or cyclinders= BTDT once was enough, buy a "complete gasket set" "FT" -- Original Message -- From: "Bob Spidell" <; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00022.html (12,618 bytes)
7. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>; Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2008 19:34:39 -0700; Measure the new rings. I have gotten mis-marked rings before. I like to measure everything that I have a spec for. NO red shop rags on clean parts! They spew fibers which end up in the oil. I like to; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00023.html (8,800 bytes)
8. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2008 20:54:41 -0700; Forgot to mention there's a lot of concern about modern (SM) oils with little or no ZDDP to protect high-shear areas (like lifter faces and cam lobes) on flat-tappet engines. There are several additi; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00024.html (8,018 bytes)
9. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: "Chad on LEG" <chad@linuxeg.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 01:37:14 -0400; Check out Shell Rotella T, they reduced the amount of ZDDP but is said to provide the necessary level of protection. I'll be breaking in a new cam is the next few weeks so I hope so! (was and I think; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00025.html (8,789 bytes)
10. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 08:55:38 -0400; Dan, Others have presented good advice. A couple of thing I haven't seen mention directly: 1. Have a machine shop do your head - deck it, new valve guides and seats, and seat the valves. 2. Have the; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00026.html (10,395 bytes)
11. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 01:38:45 -1200; If the block has any aluminum (MGA/MGB engines have aluminum engine number tags) remove it or it might be destroyed. The MG ID tags are secured with drive rivets. Pry them out to remove. They are on; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00027.html (8,513 bytes)
12. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 06:42:59 -0700 (PDT); If a rod doesn't bend, you might break a rocker arm instead. That's what happened to me once... You can also mount a handle-less screwdriver in an electric drill, and stick it down into the oil pump; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00028.html (8,987 bytes)
13. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: Steve Shipley <shiples@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 07:23:52 -0700; Be aware that your particular situation might vary from standard procedures. I was taught to dunk the whole piston/ring/rod assembly in motor oil. My last engine (Jaguar) had rings that were designe; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00029.html (8,355 bytes)
14. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: "Bill Gingerich" <bill@gingerich.us>; Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 09:46:03 -0500; When I rebuilt my 1500 Spitfire engine, I decided to have the machine shop assemble the bottom end for me. I was not sure that I was going to be able to accurately verify the bearing clearances, so; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00030.html (8,457 bytes)
15. Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild (score: 1): Author: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek@ameritech.net>; Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 11:15:58 -0500; If you're pretty sure everything is OK but just want a double-check, or to check bearings in an assesmbled and installed engine, Plasti-Gage is pretty reliable. If you haven't used it, it's a thin pl; /html/shop-talk/2008-08/msg00031.html (9,016 bytes)

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