And I cannot work on the Triumph until the wife and kid can swim again... For the past few weeks the main pool pump has hummed a little bit when I turned it on, before it actually began pumping water
Depending on the motor type, it will have either starting contacts inside or a starting capacitor. Whichever it has is bad ... from your description I would guess it's a capacitor start and the capac
I'm not a EE nor do I play one on TV. I did teach motors at a vocational high school for a dozen years. When my pool pump had problems a few years ago I got a new motor. I do not remember how much it
In the interests of getting you back to the poor wee beastie, I would suggest you look for a thermal cutout in the motor. Should be a press-to-reset button, likely red (ask someone to help if you ar
The start capacitor is typically housed in a lump on the outside of the main motor body. There will be a sheet metal cover that can be removed after unscrewing a single screw. That should reveal the
Also inspect the connection between the motor and the pump. The last two times we have had to replace our well "pump" its been the connection between the two, not the motor itself, that's gone bad...
You didn't say how big the motor is or what the make is. I have a Hayward filter, pump and motor. I had similar problems with mine and the starting capacitor fixed it. But, more and more stuff happen
Dear Scott, The "common approach" now is to use 1/2 the HP and run it for twice as long as the original motor. If you have a 25K gallon pool, you could maintain it with a 3/4 HP motor/pump very easil
If you do wind up replacing a start capacitor bear in mind that it might still be holding enough electricity to give you a bit of a surprise. Many years ago when I worked in A/C and refridgeration we
so there was no hump on the top of the motor, the 'bottom' end of the motor's cylindrical housing came off, revealing what I hope is a transformer. and I hope that's what was broken, because I took m
I'm sorry, I meant capacitor, and that's what this thing appears to be. haven't found the exact one on grainger yet, but the pictures on the site look like the thing on my table right now. does it ha
most excellent. have the capacitor, it is the right size, it fits in the housing...and I don't know how to hook it up. the blade terminals on the capacitor are not marked, there are just four of them
How many wires were actually going to the start cap? If it was three total then two of them would go to one pair of U-shaped spade connectors and the remaining wire would go to the other set of U-sha
no polarity is marked anywhere on the capacitor I took out or its replacement, which is the dayton from grainger. there were three wires going to the capacitor, and I forgot to note the colors, but I
Either look closely or check with a meter; the pairs that are closer together are typically connected. IOW the capacitor only has two connections, but each has two terminals for convenience in wirin
run, and capacitor There are capacitor run motors, as well. Where the start winding is left attached. If i rember right, they don't get very big, though. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt@gmail.com ________
That's true, but at least the ones I'm familiar with have two capacitors and contacts to take the start capacitor out of the circuit once the motor is running. A much smaller 'run' capacitor is left
and with that's how higher power ones work. There are small ones that have the (very small) cap permanently owered. They've got more starting torque than a shaded pole motor, but less than a dedicate