Mail Archive Search: <+subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*\[Spits\]\s+Recommendations\:\s+dash\s+\/\s+body\s+parts\s+\/\s+welding\s*$/>

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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*\[Spits\]\s+Recommendations\:\s+dash\s+\/\s+body\s+parts\s+\/\s+welding\s*$/: 8 ]

Total 8 documents matching your query.

1. Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding (score: 1): Author: "Tod Jones" <todjones@comcast.net>; Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 20:51:44 -0400; Vicky Brit has decent sheetmetal replacement parts. I have also used spitbits with good results. Both use BMHIT stampings. Others might be good also YMMV. Whenever you are looking for help give your; /html/spitfires/2008-08/msg00044.html (9,740 bytes)
2. Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding (score: 1): Author: "Mike Welch" <spitfire@freebacon.net>; Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2008 19:41:09 -0600; www.theroadsterfactory.com These are the big three in my book for replacement parts. Moss is good for 'universal' parts, but they don't have any info on round-tails. I can try scanning my dash panel; /html/spitfires/2008-08/msg00045.html (10,425 bytes)
3. Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding (score: 1): Author: mark.jones@exxonmobil.com; Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 15:06:52 -0400; Well, it's not the cheapest welder, but I have a Hobart 135, 120V, with gas connections, and it worked great this past year welding in all the new panels on my 80 Spitfire 1500. The Hobart 135 has lo; /html/spitfires/2008-08/msg00046.html (7,630 bytes)
4. Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding (score: 1): Author: "Nick Moseley" <nmoseley@dccnet.com>; Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 20:41:25 -0700; Thanks Mike W, great find, that's a really good site! Lots snipped:" http://www.classic-car-magazine.co.uk/spitrest/spitfire-sill-replacement.htm l " Mike Welch '69 Spitfire x 2 '69 Honda SL350 '76 H; /html/spitfires/2008-08/msg00047.html (7,282 bytes)
5. Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding (score: 1): Author: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:15:16 -0700 (PDT); Like everybody says, get an auto-darkening helmet. Even a HF cheapo is better than nothing. Also, the Spit's sheet metal is pretty thin, and the thinner sheet metal is, the harder it is to weld. make; /html/spitfires/2008-08/msg00049.html (7,907 bytes)
6. Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding (score: 1): Author: "Mike Vasquez" <mike.vasquez@gmail.com>; Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:14:48 -0700; Thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated! I posted several more pics, including engine compartment, etc. http://www.meant2bdriven.com/?q=image/tid/1 Looks like it's the original engine: FC25036,; /html/spitfires/2008-08/msg00050.html (10,094 bytes)
7. Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding (score: 1): Author: Andrew Mace <zoboherald@aol.com>; Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:52:17 -0400; Thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated! I posted several more pics, including engine compartment, etc. http://www.meant2bdriven.com/?q=image/tid/1 Looks like it's the original engine: FC25036,; /html/spitfires/2008-08/msg00052.html (8,482 bytes)
8. Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding (score: 1): Author: "Mike Vasquez" <mike.vasquez@gmail.com>; Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 11:59:20 -0700; Yes -- I don't know how I had gotten carb in my mind (except it was so prevalent in the picture?) but the note was that it appeared to be a Mk 2 Header and a Mk 1 Intake. Stock carbs. Sorry for the c; /html/spitfires/2008-08/msg00054.html (8,526 bytes)

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