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Total 11 documents matching your query.

1. [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: Tom Note <tom628@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2007 17:34:53 -0600 (CST); I'm installing Richard Good's triple ZS maniflod on our '76 TR6, and I like to replace hardware wherever possible. When I removed the existing manifolds, some of the studs stayed in the head, while 3; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00199.html (7,509 bytes)
2. RE: [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 15:41:20 -0800; Normally yes, but it depends entirely on how badly they are corroded into place. Personally, I would skip the red Loctite. Anti-seize is definitely a good idea, though. If the only thing wrong with; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00200.html (8,657 bytes)
3. Re: [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>; Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 19:47:06 -0500; Tom, I would replace the stud where the nut would not come off. The studs that are still in the head should be fine. I used anti-seize on both sides of the stud on my TR4 project. I would rather have; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00203.html (8,175 bytes)
4. RE: [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 20:58:53 -0500; Only thing I'd add is to use brass nuts along with the anti-seize. My understanding is that the dissimilar metals (steel studs & brass nuts) won't "bond" with time i.e rust together. Bob Danielson 1; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00204.html (8,814 bytes)
5. Re: [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: jar@aldermanroad.net; Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2007 21:37:05 -0500; In the old days, brass manifold nuts were standard on most cars, for the very reason you stated. I generally use them on TRs. They should still be readily available. Triumph used copper plated steel; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00207.html (9,421 bytes)
6. Re: [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: jar@aldermanroad.net; Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2007 21:50:01 -0500; I would keep the original studs. Get a stud puller (a special device that is used with a 1/2" drive breaker bar) and hold the stud with this while breaking the nut loose. You can also use a hacksaw; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00208.html (8,913 bytes)
7. Re: [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller@rcn.com>; Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2007 00:27:52 -0500; My first real car, a '69 Fiat 124 Spider had brass manifold-to-pipe nuts. It just seemed like a good idea, especially since it blew its gasket every 12 months. -- Jim Muller jimmuller@rcn.com '80 Spi; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00210.html (7,636 bytes)
8. Re: [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: DLylis@aol.com; Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 06:29:30 EST; You see, that's where you DON'T need brass nuts. If you are removing the manifolds annually there is not sufficient time for the parts to seize. Frankly, I think it is bold of Fiat to consider using; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00213.html (7,615 bytes)
9. Re: [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: Dave1massey@cs.com; Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2007 08:57:24 EST; That's good in theory. I'll send you some brass nuts with broken studs frozen inside if you like. Use antisieze. Dave == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00214.html (7,790 bytes)
10. [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: dave at ranteer.com (Dave); Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 00:17:46 -0500; what is the recommended torque settings for the nuts that attach to the manifold studs for an early tr4? thanks!; /html/triumphs/2012-04/msg00055.html (6,527 bytes)
11. [TR] manifold studs (score: 1): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 16:04:28 -0700; My book says 22-24 ft lb, which seems about right (tho I never bother using a torque wrench). More important, IMO, is to use new lock washers and check the nuts for tightness occasionally. On my TR3; /html/triumphs/2012-04/msg00059.html (7,209 bytes)

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