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Total 5 documents matching your query.

1. Advice on cylinder head (score: 1): Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>; Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:22:26 -0500; Over the weekend I removed the cylinder head from my TR6. The main reason is to replace leaky valve guides. The valve in the suspect cylinder was crusted over with black tar so I'm guessing this is t; /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00058.html (8,033 bytes)
2. Re: Advice on cylinder head (score: 1): Author: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>; Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 21:55:40 -0500; Here are my thoughts on the head. British Parts NW have the short pushrods if you need them. You need them if, after milling, you don't have enough adjustment at the rocker arms. I personally use ha; /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00061.html (10,821 bytes)
3. RE: Advice on cylinder head (score: 1): Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>; Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:17:36 -0500; Thanks everyone for the well thought out advice. Based on everyone's input, I am going to postpone anything beyond the head work for a couple of years. I am still pondering CR increase and valve seat; /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00081.html (6,977 bytes)
4. RE: Advice on cylinder head (score: 1): Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>; Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:21:43 -0500; Sorry, I mis-typed. I meant to say bronze valve guides.; /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00082.html (7,580 bytes)
5. RE: Advice on cylinder head (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 11:15:38 -0500 (EST); The proper installtion of the valve guides is that youfit them in and then ream them to a proper clearance for the material. I'm not a machinist, so I don't know the numbers, but it's a safe bet that; /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00089.html (7,862 bytes)

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