- 1. Bearings and Crank (score: 1)
- Author: Neil Cotty <neilc@tradesrv.com.au>
- Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 11:30:05 -0800
- Hi all - just a follow up to my message of last night. I got the #3 piston out no drama. Appears ok - no visible damage. The big end bearing mating surface on the top part of the rod appears to have
- /html/mgs/1998-12/msg00333.html (8,019 bytes)
- 2. Re: Bearings and Crank (score: 1)
- Author: H4aardvrk@aol.com
- Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 19:57:43 EST
- << What I want to know is why the heck did this bearing decided to nuke itself immediately after my two weeks of carb rebuilding.... *SOB* I didn't even get to play with my new toy!!!!... lol! :) Nei
- /html/mgs/1998-12/msg00335.html (7,110 bytes)
- 3. Re: Bearings and Crank (score: 1)
- Author: s4usea@fanniemae.com (Scott Allen)
- Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 20:22:50 -0500
- A story and advice here. Last Summer I picked up my TD through a broker who got it from the estate of someone that had passed away. The TD had 554 miles on a re-built engine and drivetrain, and the b
- /html/mgs/1998-12/msg00336.html (8,709 bytes)
- 4. Re: Bearings and Crank (score: 1)
- Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>
- Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:05:36 -0500 (EST)
- Neil before you pull the engine besure you loosen the crank shaft nut, it's a lot easier if you can put the car in gear to stop it from turning. The nut is large 1 5/16 (at least with my B). And you
- /html/mgs/1998-12/msg00365.html (8,905 bytes)
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