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1. Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 09:59:34 -0400charset=iso-8859-1; I'd like to start working on that bit of rust on my lower quarterpanel (behind the rear passenger wheel). It's limited to the piece below the moldings, so paint matching doesn't have to be perfect.; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00568.html (9,879 bytes)
2. Re: Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 11:20:45 -0400; I have found that in general the spray can primers are fine (I get mine at Ace Hardware fwiw). However, primer itself can absorb water, so you should topcoat with a compatible paint as soon as possi; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00569.html (9,791 bytes)
3. Re: Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 09:46:27 -0700; Hi Mike, I have had really good luck using a product called "Ospho". It is available in most paint shops, and just brushes on the metal surface, killing the existing rust and forming a paintable surf; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00570.html (11,155 bytes)
4. Re: Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 10:01:40 -0700; After you remove the rust with a wire brush, scraping, sanding etc., I recommend you treat the bare metal (espaecially where the rust is) with phosporic acid (metal prep) You can get it from a profe; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00571.html (11,492 bytes)
5. Re: Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:41:14 EDT; << If I apply the bondo directly to the bare metal, I'm worried the water that's trapped might cause the rust to begin again. >> Mike: You should put the bondo right on the bare metal, and the key is; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00580.html (8,279 bytes)
6. Re: Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 17:47:25 EDT; << Any holes should be reinforced with some sore of mesh. >> Actually holes should be filled in with weld or welded-in patches so there is no chance of moisture entering your work from behind, where; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00581.html (8,064 bytes)
7. Re: Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 21:24:21 -0400; Bondo is made of talc, and it absorbs moisture just like baby powder. If possible, try to find Evercoat filler, it is much easier to work with. It comes in metal and talc base. Or fiberglass is anot; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00585.html (9,793 bytes)
8. Re: Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 21:57:20 -0400; Everyone's giving wonderful advice. I can't, I'm lousy at body work. What I though is give some advice on some bad things to do that I always seem to manage to do. Don't expand the job. My latest mes; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00586.html (10,895 bytes)
9. Re: Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 19:05:12 -0700; Good point David, Only problem is not everyone has welding equipment and depending on the proximity of the hole, it could require having to repaint beyond the area he wants to limit the repair. Gerar; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00588.html (8,928 bytes)
10. RE: Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:34:02 -0400charset="iso-8859-1"; I found a site that may be interesting to those looking to repainting their own car. Maybe it will be of help to you too. http://www.roverlanders.bc.ca/faq/LRpaintMain.html Bob; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00591.html (7,645 bytes)
11. Re: Body Work Preparation - Rust and Bondo (score: 1): Author: Unknown; Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 22:55:43 EDT; << I found a site that may be interesting to those looking to repainting their own car. Maybe it will be of help to you too. http://www.roverlanders.bc.ca/faq/LRpaintMain.html >> Gosh! Did you see th; /html/spridgets/2000-09/msg00592.html (7,751 bytes)

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