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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Brake\s+Pads\s*$/: 16 ]

Total 16 documents matching your query.

1. brake pads (score: 1): Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>; Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 00:10:07 -0500; I'll be putting my front end back together with new rotors and rebuilt calipers. For reasonably aggressive street use, what's the best bet for brake pads? Moss shows stock pads, semi-metallics, and t; /html/mgs/2003-05/msg00283.html (6,707 bytes)
2. Re: brake pads (score: 1): Author: "Bill Meyer" <wcameyer@msn.com>; Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 07:49:08 -0700; The green stuff looks pretty good, but quite pricey. I find that the metallics do very well -makes my '72 with no assist stop almost as well as my '67 with power assist. Bill /// or try http://www.te; /html/mgs/2003-05/msg00289.html (6,655 bytes)
3. Re: brake pads (score: 1): Author: Rocky Frisco <rock@rocky-frisco.com>; Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 13:58:41 -0500; The brakes on the Victor TF (MGB) squeal so loud I had to go to special thermal pads on the front, and they still squeal when really hot. -Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com -- "JJ Cale Live" CD & Vide; /html/mgs/2003-05/msg00290.html (7,238 bytes)
4. brake pads (score: 1): Author: Michael Jose <mwjose@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 15:08:27 -0700; I'm putting new pads on my front brakes right now, and I have a silly newbie type question: how the devil does one push the pistons back in? bentley says to use a suitable clamp (?), haynes says to p; /html/mgs/2002-02/msg00829.html (7,293 bytes)
5. Re: brake pads (score: 1): Author: dennis <mg-dennis@mindspring.com>; Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 14:31:25 -0800; I've always used a small C clamp and a little block of wood. The small block of wood goes inside the piston to give the clamp something to push against Dennis Cox 67 MGB /// /// mgs@autox.team.net ma; /html/mgs/2002-02/msg00830.html (7,771 bytes)
6. Re: brake pads (score: 1): Author: "Bill Meyer" <wcameyer@msn.com>; Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 15:56:07 -0700; I've always used a pry bar?! /// /// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool ///; /html/mgs/2002-02/msg00832.html (6,996 bytes)
7. Re: brake pads (score: 1): Author: Rocky Frisco <rock@rocky-frisco.com>; Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 05:25:39 -0600; I use a big prybar. First I put an old pad in the opposite side, to back up the rotor so it doesn't get warped, then I use the prybar, carefully working around the outside of the piston to force it i; /html/mgs/2002-02/msg00836.html (8,500 bytes)
8. RE: brake pads (score: 1): Author: "Larry Hoy" <larryhoy@prodigy.net>; Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:42:37 -0700; I use a small wooden stick. Push it back slowly and drop in the pad. I'm sure Bill's pry bar will work OK, but yikes, I hate the thought of using a steel tool to pry back the piston.... Larry Hoy ///; /html/mgs/2002-02/msg00838.html (7,536 bytes)
9. Re: brake pads (score: 1): Author: Bob Van Kirk <racerbob70@yahoo.com>; Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:30:09 -0800 (PST); All the previous suggestions will work but what they didn't mention was that you will probably have to take some of the brake fluid out of the master cylinder before you push the pistons back into t; /html/mgs/2002-02/msg00842.html (7,662 bytes)
10. Re: brake pads (score: 1): Author: "Henry D. Reynolds" <hdr@jump.net>; Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 00:33:44 -0600; I always use a small square of plywood aginst the piston and a large pair of channel lock plyers - it is much easier if you unscrew the master cylinder cap first :-) -- Henry D. Reynolds - System Adm; /html/mgs/2002-02/msg00859.html (7,236 bytes)
11. Re: brake pads (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 09:34:00 -0500; When the pistons are pushed back into the calipers they displace a lot of brake fluid. Step one is to use a syringe and suck at least half of the fluid out of the master cylinder. If you poke it to; /html/mgs/2002-02/msg00873.html (8,362 bytes)
12. RE: Brake Pads (score: 1): Author: "Maynard Hirsch" <mghirsch@netzero.net>; Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 15:32:17 -0600; You don't need a special tool. There are several correct ways to do the job. The best way is to clamp the brake hose, open the bleeder and retract the pistons. You can use a screwdriver if the calipe; /html/mgs/2002-02/msg00894.html (7,756 bytes)
13. Brake Pads (score: 1): Author: jmc <jmc987@earthlink.net>; Date: Wed, 6 Sep 00 18:11:24 -0700; I need to replace the front brake pads on my MGB roadster. I notice that Moss has three types: The V-8, which at $79.95 are out of the question. Standard for 19.95. And Semi Metallic for $29.95. What; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00239.html (6,642 bytes)
14. Re: Brake Pads (score: 1): Author: Bud Krueger <bkrueger@ici.net>; Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 22:20:38 -0400; You might also check with your neighborhood auto parts store, e.g., NAPA, AutoZone, etc. Name brand pads for MGB's are still common items. -- Bud Krueger http://home.ici.net/~bkrueger/ 52TD 77MGB; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00244.html (7,036 bytes)
15. Brake Pads (score: 1): Author: "N" <twobees@sprynet.com>; Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 09:30:49 -0400; Joseph @earthlink asks re. pads for his '67 MGB. My question is this - how fast, how safely and how often do you want to stop? Bottom line is: stock pads are fine for most normal driving. Semi-metall; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00262.html (6,956 bytes)
16. Re: Brake Pads (score: 1): Author: <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>; Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 18:59:17 +0100; Just as well, since the backing plates are different shapes - for the factory V8 at least. PaulH.; /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00317.html (6,802 bytes)

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