I'm just putting the finishing touches on my bugeye restoration project, and have run into some issues with the rear brakes, and clutch. I am using a rebuilt 7/8 inch dual master, that was bead-blas
In my experience, you should NOT flush the brake lines with anything other than brake fluid. If there is still too much gunk inside, you might consider new steel brake lines. Not as daunting a task
Thanks for the comments. I'm not sure that 'swelling' of the rubber components would be an issue here, since I just put the fluid in the system for the first time last Sunday, and experience the pro
BTW - The lines were flushed individually off the car, and blown out with compressed air, and left in the sun to dry. I didn't want everyone to think I actually fill up the master with carb cleaner,
In all the comments I've heard from this list and everything I've read in periodicals, SOL Technical Info (you might want to check this out) and a few other sources, the conversion procedures you sa
<< In my experience, you should NOT flush the brake lines with anything other than brake fluid. If there is still too much gunk inside, you might consider new steel brake lines. Not as daunting a tas
I'd be interested in hearing how well your brakes work with the "synthetic" fluid. I presume you are referring to Silicone DOT 5 fluid. We tried it under similar circumstances and ran into a "hydrau
It's not an LBC, but I do have DOT 5 silicone in the Fury. The braking system was completely changed, and all new Raybestos master and wheel cylinders put in. No problems so far, but the brakes don't
I've been running Silicone on a new system for about 7 months now with no Larry Miller http://www.ado13.com "Never trust a dog to guard your food." "synthetic" fluid. similar in the and honed. I blew
Thanks everyone for your comments. All the components in my system are true new Locheed, and I'm using the 'teflon/braded steel' flexible brake lines. At this point I guess I'll try making a few adj
I have converted a few bugeyes to later rear brakes. It seems you either have to use the later drums or gring about 1/8 off the inner lip of the original drums. My current bugeye has the original dru
FWIW I had a stiff clutch on the 68 last month,it felt like I was shifting the GTO.When it finally went I found that the fexible line from the frame to the slave had decided to gut itself into the sl
Hi Herb, I have had Dot 5 brake fluid in my car for umten years or so, and have never had a problem. In fact, my mechanis said that that was the only reason my brakes did not have to be rebuilt after
<< I'd be interested in hearing how well your brakes work with the "synthetic" fluid. I presume you are referring to Silicone DOT 5 fluid. >> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - There are s
I didn't know you could buy pre-bent brake lines for Spridgets anywhere. How does one get ahold of these from Classic Tube? ie, Does anyone know how to order them (phone #, address, e-mail, or ?) Tha
I had checked into getting new stainless pre-bent lines from a place listed in Hemmings. That was about a year ago. At that time I think the price they quoted me was about $120 for the brakes, and an
Classic Tube - 80 Rotech Drive - Lancaster, NY 14086 Tel: 1-716-759-1800 or 1-800-882-3711 - (716) 759-1014 24hr Fax also @ www.classictube.com Bryan is correct, they do fold the lines for shipping b
First of all I would like to thank everyone for their input. I received a lot great suggestions. Being new to this list, I was greatly impressed by the number of responses I received. I wanted to sha
Author: "Angela Hervey-Tennyson & Peter Westcott" <toobmany@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 21:24:35 +1000
You've put in a ton of work however for disk brakes, later drums and the 1275 clutch you need to drop your master cylinder back to .75"/.75" and increase the clutch slave to 1" to get decent pedal fe