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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Cam\s+and\s+Crank\s*$/: 5 ]

Total 5 documents matching your query.

1. Cam and Crank (score: 1)
Author: Brad Sivacoe <t_r_6_1971@yahoo.ca>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 20:39:33 -0500 (EST)
I am currently rebuilding the engine for my 1971 TR6. I am a little confused about synchronizing the camshaft and the crankshaft. To my understanding through reading the workshop manual, aligning th
/html/6pack/2003-02/msg00696.html (7,238 bytes)

2. Re: Cam and Crank (score: 1)
Author: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 21:05:02 -0500
I would not trust the timing marks on the sprockets. My understanding is the best way to "degree a cam" is with a degree wheel & a dial indicator. Check out this link, http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesi
/html/6pack/2003-02/msg00698.html (7,443 bytes)

3. RE: Cam and Crank (score: 1)
Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 22:33:30 -0500
Hi Brad. If you are just removing and replacing the stock cam, lining up the dots is what you need to do. The cam has to be phased properly, but each tooth is about 6 degrees (as I recall) so it's no
/html/6pack/2003-02/msg00700.html (8,380 bytes)

4. Re: Cam and Crank (score: 1)
Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 20:36:50 -0800 (PST)
Brad--If in doubt about the cam timing marks, use the "on the rock" method as described in the Bentley manual, and some others. This is when both #11 & 12 valves are open the same amount. You'll prob
/html/6pack/2003-02/msg00701.html (7,044 bytes)

5. Re: Cam and Crank (score: 1)
Author: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 10:08:44 -0700
Brad, in addition to the links you got in some of your replies, I will say that the holes on the camshaft sprocket of my 6 allow a bit of slop that will vary the timing by at least about 2 degrees (+
/html/6pack/2003-02/msg00706.html (8,010 bytes)


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