Mail Archive Search: <+subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Crack\s+of\s+doom\s+\#\&\%\^\*\@\%\!\!\!\!\s*$/>

Results:

References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Crack\s+of\s+doom\s+\#\&\%\^\*\@\%\!\!\!\!\s*$/: 11 ]

Total 11 documents matching your query.

1. Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: "Bob DeWeese" <bearlock@erols.com>; Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 20:56:38 -0400; Hi gang! Some of you may remember me from a couple of years ago 77 MGB (green with black spots). I'm a locksmith in Baltimore. Coming back to ya, yet? My green with black spots B is now BRG (or at le; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg00988.html (8,660 bytes)
2. Re: Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: John Walker <drone@d23.com>; Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 19:59:15 -0700; I could be wrong, but I believe that the only way to REALLY correct the "Crack of Doom" is to replace the door skin. I suppose you could screw some sort of plate over the crack to keep it from getti; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg00997.html (10,017 bytes)
3. RE: Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: "Larry Hoy" <larryhoy@prodigy.net>; Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 21:50:47 -0600; Bobby I had the same experience with the crack of doom. I explained to the body shop how I wanted it repaired. I guess he figured that he had a better way ... he didn't. Mine waited about 1 year to r; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01002.html (9,105 bytes)
4. Re: Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: "gary & traci" <racer@kiva.net>; Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 23:01:53 -0500; the way i fixxed mine was to weld the crack wita piece of metal on the back side.its held for over 5 years now the better thoroughly drill it it.; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01003.html (9,681 bytes)
5. RE: Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: John Walker <drone@d23.com>; Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 21:17:59 -0700; If you can do the welding yourself I can see how this would be a good way to go. But it seems with the amount of work that is required here it would be just as easy to just buy the $50.00 door skin a; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01005.html (9,653 bytes)
6. Re: Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: "gary & traci" <racer@kiva.net>; Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 23:37:28 -0500; there would be considerable more labor time($$$) to reskin one than to weld the crack plus the skin would have to be welded also but if there is alot of dents in the door then a new skin may be the w; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01006.html (9,363 bytes)
7. RE: Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>; Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 07:42:02 -0700; My understanding is that fitting the door skin is not all that simple. John Walker had this to say: -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mountain View, CA, it's the red one with the silver b; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01018.html (9,073 bytes)
8. Re: Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: "Don Markham" <markham@netusa1.net>; Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 09:56:26 -0700; I have just recently installed a new door skin on my 67 bgt, It was not that difficult. The whole trick I was told was to have the door installed and properly aligned before starting so that you had; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01019.html (8,712 bytes)
9. Re: Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>; Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 17:46:59 +0100; I welded the crack, and fashioned a plate with slightly less radius than the skin, that I screwed the mirror into. I also extended the flange that supports the drop glass seal, round the 1/4-light ap; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01027.html (10,213 bytes)
10. Re: Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: James Nazarian Jr <James.Nazarian@Colorado.EDU>; Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 14:57:28 -0600 (MDT); I have never dealt with the crack of doom (knocking on wood as I am writing), but I have seen it and I don't se why you couldn't weld the crack back together and then smooth the weld out with a grind; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01118.html (10,997 bytes)
11. RE: Crack of doom #&%^*@%!!!! (score: 1): Author: "Dodd, Kelvin" <doddk@mossmotors.com>; Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 14:15:59 -0700; You make a good point. Normally I MIG weld the tear. The cracks I have seen, start at a stress riser right at the corner of the window opening fold. I reinforce this area with a MIG weld bead, then; /html/mgs/1999-09/msg01122.html (12,556 bytes)

Current List: 1 - 11
Page: [1]