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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Dash\s+restoration\s*$/: 15 ]

Total 15 documents matching your query.

1. Dash Restoration (score: 1): Author: "Bob Van-Kempen" <bobvankempen@optusnet.com.au>; Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 19:16:20 +1000; Hi all I'm just about to get the trim on my Spitfire 4 replaced, including the dash top. Can anyone tell me if there are any traps to removing the windscreen frame? Eg can the present rubber separati; /html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00352.html (7,044 bytes)
2. Re: Dash Restoration (score: 1): Author: Dan Canaan <flinters@picarefy.com>; Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 05:40:17 -0700; Two nuts at the end of the mounting studs on either side of the dash right above the A pillar. Soak the assembly in penetrating oil before attempting to remove. You'll need to remove the top nuts and; /html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00355.html (8,085 bytes)
3. Re: Dash Restoration (score: 1): Author: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>; Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 07:49:46 -0700; Bob, This all depends on how long the frame has been sitting on the car. If it has never been removed or not lately, it is highly likely that it may take a bit of working to get it off. And the rubbe; /html/spitfires/2002-08/msg00357.html (7,523 bytes)
4. Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 15 Jun 2000 08:39:20 -0500; What is the best approach to dash restoration? I am not looking to spend any more money than I can avoid on this - a pot of varnish or whatever, a brush, and a sheet of sandpaper is what I'm aiming f; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00532.html (8,242 bytes)
5. Re: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: "Rob Travis" <sixt6spitfire@hotmail.com>; Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 13:05:50 PDT; Hi Richard, I would use a random obital sander to get back to the wood. Probably 100 grit then finish the wood with 220. I would apply 1 seal coat and 2 finish coats, hand sanding between coats, don'; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00553.html (9,452 bytes)
6. Re: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: "John Weber" <weberjm@teleport.com>; Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 17:58:36 -0700; I reveneered mine for 30 bucks and about 4 hours. Sanded the original down with 150 grit and a belt sander. Much less on the sandpaper and you'll be doing it for ever; much more and you'll have no fa; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00563.html (9,074 bytes)
7. Re: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: "dayton carpenter" <djcarpen@hotmail.com>; Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 23:57:14 PDT; I usually use a chemical stripper and a putty knife to remove the old varnish. Some residual varnish may need some light sanding to remove. You should sand only in the direction of the grain, therefo; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00569.html (11,145 bytes)
8. Re: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: "Mike Perry" <mikep@michindust.com>; Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 07:17:36 -0400; I used a chemical stripper....much less work, plus the stain will take better (and you might be able to even out the discoloration. Mike Perry of for. pick P.O. pressures wood, varnish, OK if I; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00571.html (8,901 bytes)
9. Re: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: "Nolan Penney" <npenney@mde.state.md.us>; Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 08:20:15 -0400; I don't know if you're going to like the solid wood dash. The directional stability is quite poor that way. Warping becomes a problem, as does cracking and the popping out or jamming in of gauges. Cr; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00576.html (8,017 bytes)
10. RE: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: "Simmons, Reid W" <reid.w.simmons@intel.com>; Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 17:26:00 -0700; The veneer over plywood warps badly too. I'm making my own dash out of solid Walnut Burl. I have it kiln dried, then I cut and shape it, soak it in a vat of sealer for a long, long time, then finish; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00635.html (8,455 bytes)
11. Re: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>; Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:12:05 -0700; I'd like to try and talk you out of making it out ok any sort of solid wood. There are many more downsides to that than advantages. The exposure to the elements will tend to make it crack and the on; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00636.html (9,232 bytes)
12. Re: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>; Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 16:00:33 +0100; Hi Richard You need to do it the paint stripper way, I tried lightly sanding a dash and went through the vaneer before I got all the varnish off, the vaneer is THIN! Paint strip then a very light san; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00646.html (9,385 bytes)
13. RE: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:46:15 -0400; I am not a Triumph restoration expert, but I do know something about wood, I would use tung oil, scratch resistant, easy to blend in, easy to repair blemishes, water resistant. I use it for all my an; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00718.html (8,814 bytes)
14. RE: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 21 Jun 2000 04:43:34 -0500; Thanks to all of you (Michael, Graham, Mike, Philip, John, Scott, Sujit, Tom, Steph, Greg - God, there's a lot of you helpful guys out there!) who have advised me on how to improve my dash. I reckon; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00760.html (8,736 bytes)
15. RE: Dash restoration (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 21 Jun 2000 09:01:20 -0500; -- Forwarded by Richard B Gosling/1M/Caterpillar on 21/06/2000 02:59 PM -- Richard B Gosling 21Jun2000 02:58 PM Thanks for the reply - but you are beginning to lose me here, I don't know much about w; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00766.html (10,392 bytes)

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