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Total 9 documents matching your query.

1. Delurk and Rot Repair Question (score: 1): Author: "Scotsman" <scotsman@worldnet.att.net>; Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 20:40:07 -0500; I have just purchased my first LBC! It is a '68 B Roadster, British Racing The car has the typical rot in the sills, floorboards and around the exhaust notch on the crossmember. My questions: I just; /html/mgs/1999-11/msg00650.html (8,845 bytes)
2. RE: Delurk and Rot Repair Question (score: 1): Author: douglas wilson <dfwilson@netcom.ca>; Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 00:03:31 -0500; Hi Bill, Check this web site out for parts and "Tech Tips". I got all my sill repair parts and info from them.I'm sure the cheap Canadian dollar would be money saving for you. I have many pictures o; /html/mgs/1999-11/msg00652.html (9,631 bytes)
3. Re: Delurk and Rot Repair Question (score: 1): Author: dwilkins@wcta.net (Don Wilkins); Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:25:05 GMT; Is your system clock 4 years behind for a good reason or are you Canadians just trying to catch up? :-); /html/mgs/1999-11/msg00653.html (7,960 bytes)
4. Re: Delurk and Rot Repair Question (score: 1): Author: "Michael P. Ohleger" <movlas2@gte.net>; Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 10:52:34 -0500; There are many schools of thought here. One problem that you face is that you ARE dealing with the structural integrity of the car when you replace the sills. I have experience where one side of the; /html/mgs/1999-11/msg00656.html (10,456 bytes)
5. Re: Delurk and Rot Repair Question (score: 1): Author: Matt Pringle <pringlmm@mcmaster.ca>; Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:09:32 -0500; Not that I've done this job yet but... I was watching an episode of "Trucks" on TNN a few weeks ago and they were replacing the sills and floors on a Willys. They tacked welded a couple of square tub; /html/mgs/1999-11/msg00662.html (11,532 bytes)
6. RE: Delurk and Rot Repair Question (score: 1): Author: "BMack" <bmack99@home.com>; Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 12:05:50 -0800; These thoughts are VERY true! Honestly without the correct equipment and training you could be in for a nightmare. Leave the floors in, measure, measure, measure and be sure when you do the matching; /html/mgs/1999-11/msg00663.html (11,474 bytes)
7. Re: Delurk and Rot Repair Question (score: 1): Author: "Scotsman" <scotsman@worldnet.att.net>; Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 15:20:34 -0500; The wealth of knowledge here truly is priceless! I am beginning to make the conclusion that I should: 1. Replace sills 2. Replace crossmember 3. Replace floors In that order. Am I on the right track?; /html/mgs/1999-11/msg00664.html (7,670 bytes)
8. Re: Delurk and Rot Repair Question (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>; Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 10:30:34 -0000; I'd say 'Yes' to the below, plus leave the doors on to get good alignment of the sills to them, at least until you have tack-welded them. On the question of bracing, it can't hurt - as long as you ha; /html/mgs/1999-11/msg00701.html (8,574 bytes)
9. Re: Delurk and Rot Repair Question (score: 1): Author: James Nazarian Jr <James.Nazarian@Colorado.EDU>; Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:40:36 -0700 (MST); I bought my parts from VB and discovered that the sill sections were about 3/4 inch too tall, this would mean you would need to cut them and rebend the flange to get them to align right. I have had o; /html/mgs/1999-11/msg00720.html (8,576 bytes)

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