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Total 10 documents matching your query.

1. DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: "Ken Owens" <kenowens@mchsi.com>; Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 07:36:57 -0500; Hello Listees, I have just purchased all new parts relating to the clutch hydralics and am now receiving some conflicting advise on which fluid to use after installing the parts. After talking with s; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00019.html (7,876 bytes)
2. re: DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 12:45:40 -0500; I did a fair amount of research on this topic before I elected to put DOT5 in my TR6 post-restoration. Here are my thoughts: Firstly, you mean DOT4 (e.g. Castrol LMA), not DOT3. DOT3 is universally; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00020.html (9,838 bytes)
3. Re: DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: Btp44@aol.com; Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 13:10:09 EST; Ken-I am not sure if the darkening of the brake fluid is caused by the seals wearing or alumininum. My own experience with silicone fluid has been very positive. One car had the same fluid for 10 yea; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00021.html (7,505 bytes)
4. Re: DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: william mcintire <william.mcintire@wright.edu>; Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 14:17:09 -0500; FWIW, rebuilt the clutch m/cyl a couple years ago. Used DOT 3 or 4 (don't remember) and the piston would would randomly stick in the cyl. Topped of with silicone fluid and no problems since. Go figge; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00022.html (7,944 bytes)
5. Re: DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: "Paul G. Edelstein" <pgedelstein@capitaltriumphregister.com>; Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 14:47:40 -0500; Thanks. Interestingly, some of the "lore" also speculates that because DOT5 doesn't absorb water, it "traps" it causing localized rusting/corrosion. This same lore suggests that DOT 4 is thus better; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00023.html (9,139 bytes)
6. Re: DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 15:42:13 -0500 (EST); Regarding localised rust in your brake system. Based on sad-but-true experience I can say unequivocably that you do not want this to ever happen to your brake system. At the pressures involved, it's; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00024.html (8,467 bytes)
7. Re: DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: Walt Boeninger <walt.boeninger@hp.com>; Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 14:21:59 -0800; Well, now that flys in the face of everything.... DOT 4 and DOT 5 (silicone) are not compatible... they should never be mixed...... assuming that's what you meant by "topped off".... And to add my 2; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00025.html (7,886 bytes)
8. RE: DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: "Mike Munson" <fasttrs@mindspring.com>; Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 19:22:47 -0500; Good Bob, so I am not alone. I also had rust through with dot 5 and on a southern car with no road salt factored in. I also had braking and clutch problems on a racecar that were as a result of using; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00027.html (8,948 bytes)
9. Re:Dot 3 vs Dot 5 (score: 1): Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor); Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 16:48:39 -0800 (PST); Ken--Since your question was about "what to use in your clutch system", I will give you my report from 30 years of experience in this area of the TR6. The Owners Manual calls for DOT 3, so that's wha; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00028.html (9,361 bytes)
10. RE: DOT 3 vs DOT 5 (score: 1): Author: william.mcintire@wright.edu; Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2003 08:51:22 -0500; I should have elaborated more on the situation. Had just rebuilt the clutch m/cyl , had taken the TR on a trip and was ~100 miles from home. The m/cyl piston started sticking (not returning) and the; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00030.html (8,700 bytes)

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