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Total 16 documents matching your query.

1. Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: "Mike Sutter" <mjsutter@cts.com>; Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 17:35:28 -0700; "You'll also need to remove the fan blade shroud and some little things to thread the plastic attachments through the radiator itself. I'll let you know my results if you like." Frank, Dont do it! I; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00222.html (8,200 bytes)
2. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: Jim Parent <jparent@yahoo.com>; Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 21:16:18 -0700 (PDT); The other thing you can do is push the keeper in from the front so that if they work loose just the little square tab will get nailed by a mechanical blade. Regards, Jim B9470139 things I'll on the; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00226.html (8,834 bytes)
3. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: Steve Laifman <Laifman@Flash.Net>; Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 07:56:08 +0100; Attachment of electric fan. Having just completed such an isntallation, I can concur that plastic (or metal) tie rods are NOT the way to attach a fan. I was able to use a fan with molded brass thread; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00238.html (8,632 bytes)
4. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: FRANK_BONIFAZI@HP-FtCollins-om4.om.hp.com; Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:34:00 -0600; Thanks for the advise. The clips that came with my e-fan are not the same design. I can only hope they're better. I put the e-fan on last weekend and then drove 80 mi. to a CATO event outside of Den; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00398.html (11,732 bytes)
5. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: MWood24020@aol.com; Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 22:46:54 EDT; << I got lots of expert advise at the event (thanks guys). Replace the five blade (stainless steel fan) with the Ford 6-blade std. steel blades (must be trimmed and hole enlarged). Put a 4-core radia; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00403.html (9,115 bytes)
6. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: Kevin Meek <kevnmeek@netcom.com>; Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 07:34:49 -0700 (PDT); I also had the same situation. Rebuilt a stock 260 bored .020 over, added the six-bladed Ford fan, and had the stock radiator rodded out. The first trip we take in it - right to the top of the gauge; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00414.html (8,853 bytes)
7. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: FRANK_BONIFAZI@HP-FtCollins-om4.om.hp.com; Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:07:51 -0600; WOW! I think you may have hit the jackpot. One of the previous owners had the cylinders over-bored by 0.030. I only thought about the minimal displacement increase (< than 289). I don't know much ab; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00420.html (10,269 bytes)
8. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>; Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 14:28:16 -0700; Frank, Your questions: 1) 260 vs 289 block. Yes, they are the same generic type "block", but the cores for the water passages are very different. While both are "thin-wall", the wall between the bore; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00422.html (10,748 bytes)
9. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: Ken Tisdale <ktisdale@ix.netcom.com>; Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 11:44:12 -0600; The price for the rad re-core is about right. If your 260 was over-bored, it is "probably" (yer mileage may vary) a factor in your overheating problem... By the way, I'm running Motorcraft 13# rad ca; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00423.html (11,368 bytes)
10. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: MWood24020@aol.com; Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 21:23:10 EDT; << I know the 260 claimed to use "thin-walled" casting technology. Have any of you had a 260 bored? >> FrankI didn't mean to infer that boring a 260 .030 would _neccessarily_ result in cooling proble; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00431.html (8,459 bytes)
11. RE: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: "Allan Connell" <alcon@earthlink.net>; Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 11:10:03 -0700; FWIW, I took Steve's advice on this radiator set-up last year and have been VERY happy I did. As well, when we were heading up to TU in Big Bear we got stuck in some construction traffic coming up th; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00442.html (11,080 bytes)
12. RE: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: Bob Palmer <rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu>; Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 14:19:09 -0700; Allan, et al., Let me correct a misimpression that Allan has, with undoubted good intention, promulgated with this posting. That was no "gentleman" he was following but, in fact, yours truly. I'm ver; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00447.html (13,811 bytes)
13. RE: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: "Allan Connell" <alcon@earthlink.net>; Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 16:59:19 -0700; I sincerely did not mean to offend you Bob. But am glad as usual that I did!! To answer your question: no I do not think copper is better than aluminum. Quite to the contrary; I think it is far supe; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00452.html (15,290 bytes)
14. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: Craig Wright <craig@p-d-g.com>; Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 10:30:56 -0700; It is true. It also applies to 427 FE's. They are always sonic tested to if there is adequate wall thickness for any bore greater than .015" over. They boring bare is shifted to place the bore in the; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00527.html (9,167 bytes)
15. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>; Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:37:09 -0700; Craig, While the core may shift, causing uneven wall thickness and affecting re-bore capability, the centers of the bores are done with great precicion to put the pistons and rods over the crank jour; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00534.html (8,575 bytes)
16. Re: Electric fan attachment (score: 1): Author: Craig Wright <craig@p-d-g.com>; Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 12:07:53 -0700; Not quite, more like .010" to .020" offset. An yes, the rods, crank and wrist pins hold up fine with 500 HP coming out of a 247. The change is taken up by the large clearance between the rod small e; /html/tigers/1998-08/msg00539.html (10,408 bytes)

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