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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Electrical\s+Question\s*$/: 36 ]

Total 36 documents matching your query.

21. Electrical question (score: 1): Author: "SLUPECKI A." <ajslupecki@mke9.ra.rockwell.com>; Date: 22 May 1996 07:56:27 U; I have all of the turn signal lights, brake lights, and side markers removed from my 78B for painting. The body shop is only a short drive away. Would the brake lights and turn turn signals function; /html/mgs/1996-05/msg00799.html (7,261 bytes)
22. Re: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: Wayne Kube <wkube@iadfw.net>; Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 11:12:36 -0500; Sounds like you have a poor ground. Check the multiple wire ground point that connect inside the trunk to the license plate mounting bolt. Make sure it's tight. Not sure how the turn signals would op; /html/mgs/1996-05/msg00803.html (7,641 bytes)
23. Re: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>; Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 09:34:51 -0700 (PDT); If both turn signals come on at the same time, you have something connected wrong. Without front signals, the rears should blink very fast, or glow continuously, but not both at once. I agree that di; /html/mgs/1996-05/msg00807.html (8,388 bytes)
24. Re: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: Ragthyme@aol.com; Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 12:37:12 -0400; Most likely a bad ground someplace. B's use a sort of unusual grounding system for the lights (headlamps and taillamps use the same ground, for instance, on some models). Try getting a good ground co; /html/mgs/1996-05/msg00808.html (7,593 bytes)
25. Re: Electrical questioN (score: 1): Author: TRIFARI@aol.com; Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 20:22:43 -0400; I think you have the brake lamps tied to the parking light filament. John Trifari 1955 Healey BN1/1980 MGB; /html/mgs/1996-05/msg00850.html (7,147 bytes)
26. Electrical question (score: 1): Author: RDelany999@aol.com; Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 12:11:28 -0400; I'm new to the list, have a '74 MGB chrome bumper, and close to closing on a '53 TD. I live in Bucks County, PA Iwould like to know if anyone has experience with changing the coil to a high performan; /html/mgs/1995-04/msg00058.html (6,772 bytes)
27. Re: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: fisher@avistar.com (Scott Fisher); Date: Wed, 5 Apr 1995 16:22:27 -0800; That's not an electrical question, it's an ignition question. An electrical question on these cars means something like, "When I turn the lights on, the car makes this funny gurgling noise from behin; /html/mgs/1995-04/msg00081.html (10,178 bytes)
28. Re: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: "John M. Trindle" <jtrindle@tsquare.com>; Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 07:26:48 -0400 (EDT); Hey, I know this one! It means your headlights are shorted to your horns. The gurgling sound is that of the battery boiling. Do I win? (Well, I did find out what was going on and stopped it before I; /html/mgs/1995-04/msg00088.html (7,769 bytes)
29. Re: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: fisher@avistar.com (Scott Fisher); Date: Thu, 6 Apr 1995 10:15:02 -0800; And the duck drops down and gives the man a hundred dollars! Actually, I have boiled all the water out of at least one battery, on Highway 1 about 26 miles north of Cambria (where?), roughly in line; /html/mgs/1995-04/msg00097.html (8,023 bytes)
30. Electrical question (score: 1): Author: "Philip Jones" <philip.s.jones@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2006 22:33:38 -0700; Hi all. I'm helping my dad re-install the engine in his '74 BGT. (He replaced the transmission, and while the engine was out, pressure-washed the engine bay). We're having some electrical issues, wit; /html/mgs/2006-10/msg00180.html (7,616 bytes)
31. RE: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: "Gosling, Richard" <r.gosling@penspen.com>; Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 09:13:56 +0100; I would agree, a "click" from the solonoid but not movement is most likely a poor electrical connection. The starter sucks a vast amount of electricity, so the connection needs to be not just there,; /html/mgs/2006-10/msg00181.html (8,260 bytes)
32. Re: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@MGAguru.com>; Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 04:15:23 -0500; Disconnect the battery charger before switching on the ignition. When you do yet it running again, recalibrte the tachometer. The (rectified) 60 cycle hum from a battery charger can make an electric; /html/mgs/2006-10/msg00182.html (7,504 bytes)
33. Re: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 09:06:34 -0400; Can one use the battery charger to calibrate the tach? How would it be done? Bob On Thu, 19 Oct 2006 04:15:23 -0500 Barney Gaylord <barneymg@MGAguru.com> writes:; /html/mgs/2006-10/msg00184.html (7,729 bytes)
34. Re: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 14:29:54 +0100; Usually bad battery connections, and those at the solenoid involving the brown wires or battery cable, causes a chattering solenoid, as with the solenoid operated and the very low resistance load of; /html/mgs/2006-10/msg00186.html (9,599 bytes)
35. Re: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 14:36:16 +0100; You would need a steady 12v supply i.e. from the battery to power the electronics, then you can use the rectified AC signal from most chargers as the signal as these are not usually smoothed i.e. a s; /html/mgs/2006-10/msg00187.html (7,545 bytes)
36. RE: Electrical question (score: 1): Author: "Gosling, Richard" <r.gosling@penspen.com>; Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 15:18:09 +0100; Good point from Paul on chattering vs. clunk. Sammy II (the current Sammy) suffered from chattering - solution, a new starter. Sammy I (the original) suffered the clunk - the solonoid was activating,; /html/mgs/2006-10/msg00188.html (8,344 bytes)

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