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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Flywheel\s+woes\s*$/: 9 ]

Total 9 documents matching your query.

1. Flywheel woes (score: 1): Author: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>; Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 00:18:56 -0700; Today (Friday), I was running my TR6 in the SOVREN Historics @ Pacific Raceways in Kent WA, when during my qualifying session, I suddenly felt a vibration and the clutch wasn't operating fully. Upon; /html/fot/2003-07/msg00066.html (7,609 bytes)
2. RE: Flywheel woes (score: 1): Author: "Russ Moore" <rem9@sunlink.net>; Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 08:48:49 -0400; We've seen this quite a bit in GT-6 situations also. The fix is to add another locating pin, lighten the flywheel, maybe even consider an aluminum one, and use torque and loctite on the securing bolt; /html/fot/2003-07/msg00067.html (8,967 bytes)
3. Re: Flywheel woes (score: 1): Author: Fubog1@aol.com; Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 10:01:49 EDT; To add to the good advice by Russ. ideally you want a bolt with a large underhead bearing area & correct grip length. Also make sure that the register in back of wheel & rear of crank is pefectly cle; /html/fot/2003-07/msg00068.html (7,345 bytes)
4. Re: Flywheel woes (score: 1): Author: "kas kastner" <kaskas@cox.net>; Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 09:21:28 -0700; I guess we'll go over this again for the tenth time. The problem is that the harmonic of the TR-6 engine causes the flywheel to move back and forth (wobble) and this prys the bolts out of the crank o; /html/fot/2003-07/msg00070.html (9,107 bytes)
5. Re: Flywheel woes (score: 1): Author: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>; Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 12:02:42 -0700; Thanks all for the suggestions. Today I'm putting it back together with replacement standard bolts and will be taking Kas's advice and keeping my revs below 6000. I think I'll have to take this apart; /html/fot/2003-07/msg00072.html (10,187 bytes)
6. RE: Flywheel woes (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 15:41:09 -0700; ARP bolts will pretty much solve the problem. I suspect you won't find the right length, but a hardened washer should let the thing turn (too long a bolt will interfere on the backside, at least on a; /html/fot/2003-07/msg00073.html (7,880 bytes)
7. RE: Flywheel woes (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 15:46:24 -0700; Of course that's the way to do it when you have the motor out and have the time. You can get ARP bolts at most NAPA stores that have a performance center. I've found them at Shuck's as well. They gen; /html/fot/2003-07/msg00074.html (9,818 bytes)
8. Re: Flywheel woes (score: 1): Author: "T.R. Scratchings" <wob@dandrade.freeserve.co.uk>; Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 02:41:45 +0100; ARP Bolts are the answer. For a 4-bolt application, chamfer the flywheel holes slightly to clear the underhead radius of the bolt, and use Pt# 200-2802. Use the recommended lube. I hate Loctite on fl; /html/fot/2003-07/msg00075.html (9,584 bytes)
9. Re: Flywheel woes (score: 1): Author: greg <gtlund@cyberspeedway.net>; Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 23:03:46 -0700; Charly, We used 8, 1/2-20 bolts. Forget the dowel. Make sure you get a bolt with a proper grip length as this transfers the torque. Use the NAS 628 series of bolts from an aircraft supplier as these; /html/fot/2003-07/msg00076.html (8,349 bytes)

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