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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*GT6\s+Wheel\s+studs\s*$/: 9 ]

Total 9 documents matching your query.

1. GT6 Wheel studs (score: 1)
Author: "Bill Bartlett" <billbartlett@homerebuilders.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 10:59:06 -0500
Hello Gents, I am going to go to aluminum hubs on my GT6+. Your previous dialog was this is a good thing and the 6lb savings on the front of the nose heavy car is worth it. Ok - now the question is w
/html/fot/2003-02/msg00281.html (7,896 bytes)

2. Re: GT6 Wheel studs (score: 1)
Author: Gt6steve@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 11:50:12 EST
The alloy hubs will likely be drilled for the stock 3/8" studs so you'll have to bore them to take whatever studs you're using. The 7/16-20 upgrade is most likely a Chevy size. If not, look to use t
/html/fot/2003-02/msg00284.html (8,071 bytes)

3. RE: GT6 Wheel studs (score: 1)
Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 09:02:10 -0800
You can get great black oxide studs at any parts store, 7/16 is nice. Make sure you get them extra long so you can accommodate wheel spacers or different kinds of wheels. May not look neat, but it su
/html/fot/2003-02/msg00286.html (8,833 bytes)

4. Re: GT6 Wheel studs (score: 1)
Author: WEmery7451@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:34:25 EST
<< I am going to go to aluminum hubs on my GT6+. Your previous dialog was this is a good thing and the 6lb savings on the front of the nose heavy car is worth it. Ok - now the question is wheel studs
/html/fot/2003-02/msg00287.html (7,732 bytes)

5. Re: GT6 Wheel studs (score: 1)
Author: Bob Bownes <bownes@seiri.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:43:37 -0500
I used to make 7/16-20 studs for the stock Spit hubs from a Chevy part. Needed to have the lip tapered to seat correctly and clear everything. But they worked quite well. I still have all the fixture
/html/fot/2003-02/msg00288.html (8,631 bytes)

6. Re: GT6 Wheel studs (score: 1)
Author: Joe Curry <Spitlist@gte.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:43:12 -0700
Steve (and all) The stock hubs take the larger studs without modification so I don't know why the alloy ones would need to be modified. The smaller studs have a shank that is the same size as the TR6
/html/fot/2003-02/msg00292.html (7,534 bytes)

7. RE: GT6 Wheel studs (score: 1)
Author: "Bill Bartlett" <billbartlett@homerebuilders.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 14:52:35 -0500
I just checked with Dave Bean and they said that they can install the 7/16 - 20 either 1" long or protruding 2.3 ". So it looks like the 7/16 is ok I just need to figure on which stud length. Bill B
/html/fot/2003-02/msg00293.html (8,169 bytes)

8. Re: GT6 Wheel studs (score: 1)
Author: Joe Curry <Spitlist@gte.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 13:20:15 -0700
For racing, you'd be better off going with the long ones. 1 inch will barely cover the lugnut and most sanctioning bodies have a specification that requires 3 or 4 threads (or more) exposed through t
/html/fot/2003-02/msg00294.html (7,383 bytes)

9. RE: GT6 Wheel studs (score: 1)
Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 13:21:43 -0800
Go with the longest one. You need threads coming out the end to ensure that you've got engagement (for that matter, some tech guys won't allow closed acorns), and it makes it easier to fit different
/html/fot/2003-02/msg00295.html (8,721 bytes)


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