Author: "Louis Mehr (EML)" <Louis.Mehr@eml.ericsson.se>
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 11:23:22 +0200
Good Morning MG world, Yesterday I foolishly overtightened one of the studs on my cylinder head - one holding the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. Needless to say the remains of the stud are fl
Hi Louis, That advice is tedious but sound. If you can lay your hands on a set of left hand drill bits and a reverse drill motor, you'll have a greater likelyhood of success before you actually get y
Your plan has the disadvantage of putting your threads in peril. There is a device called an Easy-out. It is conical and reverse threaded. You drill a pilot hole then insert the easyout by turning it
Author: "T. Keith Vezina" <tkvezina@bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 19:19:05 -0600
Amen! Easy-outs are much harder than most drill bits. Just the thought of a broken stud makes me break out in hives because I invariably break the Easy-out also. head - one holding the exhaust manifo
Buy a left handed drill bit for the easyout, match the sizes, They seem to help a lot. I just removed a brand new head bolt that snaped at 30 lbs of torque, Can't figure that one. Looks like air pock
I have used easyouts a number of times. There are two kinds that I have used. The original type looks like a coarse screw with reversed threads and the newer (to me) kind looks like a tapered square
Yup. They usually break , really sticking the broken stud in the process requiring the services of a machine shop to get it out. The left handed drill bit usually works better. -- Bob Shaw Check out
You misunderstood my question. It was has anyone ever used an easyout extractor? I have seen a tool made for removing broken easyouts. Fortunately I have never needed one, it looks like small prongs